Basket Weave

19th Nov 201820th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Production

A Basket weave is based off the plain weave. It creates a checkerboard pattern and is created with at least two warp yarns which are interlocked with one weft yarn much like a plain weave. Basket weaves much like plain weaves are made on a weaving machine with a few differences. The process is made up of four main steps.

Shedding: First every second and third warp yarn are lifted in order to add what is called filling, this forms something known as a shed. This is performed on a rectangular frame where something known as heddles have been attached. Heddles are made from wire. As the warp yarns are raised they are threaded through a small hole in the heddles this is called drawing in.

Picking: When the warp yarns are lifted though shedding two weft yarns are then inserted by a electronic device. One motion of this action is known as a pick.
Beating Up/Battening: All of the warp yarns are threaded through the hole in the heddle and through a reed. A reed is a comb like device which pushes the newly formed weave line against all previous weave lines. This ensures that the weave it tight and strong.
Taking Up and Letting Off: As all of the other previous steps are in progress the newly formed weave fabric is wound onto a beam and is known as taking up. While this is happening all of the warp yarns are released from the beams they are attached to. This is known as letting off.

This process is repeated until the desired amount of fabric has been made.

Physical Properties

The basket weave is a very strong weave and also durable. Although durable it is not as durable as the plain weave is.

The physical properties of a basket weave largely depends on what type of fibre is used.

Atheistic properties

The basket weave is a very interesting looking weave with excellent draping properties. Although it drapes well it has a tendency to fray.

Other Atheistic properties of the basket weave largely depends on what type of fibre is used.

download

Uses

One use of the basket weave commonly seen in garments is in dresses. This is often done in contrasting colours in order to show off the pattern of the weave in the garment. Another reason this weave is used is due to its excellent drape and strength.

8a8164570f4492bcb4a6276c6864465f

Another use of basket weave in garments is in skirts. This weave gives the skirt good strength and drape as well as an interesting pattern.

References

Shivendra Parmar, Rahul Garg. (2018). Different types of weaves.Available: Shivendra Parmar, Rahul Garg. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Kelly Mitchell. (2018). basket weave. Available: http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-dictionary/basket-weave/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Wikipedia. (2018). basket weave. Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basketweave_(weaving). Last accessed 19/11/2018.

JC Boutique. (2018). Basket weave print dress. Available: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/286611963760769227/?lp=true .. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

jcrew. (2018). No. 2 pencil skirt in basket-weave tweed. Available: https://www.jcrew.com/uk/p/womens_category/skirts/pencil/no-2-pencil-skirt-in-basketweave-tweed/63598. Last accessed 19/11/2018

Textile School. (2018). Weaving Machine – basic operations. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/361/weaving-machine-basic-operations/. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Kelly Mitchell. (2019). Basket Weave. Available: http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-dictionary/basket-weave/. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Plain Weave

19th Nov 201820th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Production

The plain weave is also known as the tabby weave and is the simplest weave that can be made. It is made by threading each weft yarn under and over the warp yarn with the next row being in the opposite order of the previous yarn. It consists of one set of warp yarn and one set of weft yarn. In a plain weave fabric the warp and weft are aligned in order to create a criss cross pattern. When being made a loom is used where the odd and even needles are alternated in order to weave the warp and weft together. An example of a plain weave fabric is calico which is a cotton based textile. Weaves are made using a weaving machine and the process is made up of four main steps.

Shedding: First every second warp yarn are lifted in order to add what is called filling, this forms something known as a shed. This is performed on a rectangular frame where something known as heddles have been attached. Heddles are made from wire. As the warp yarn raises it is threaded through a small hole in the heddles this is called drawing in.

Picking: When the warp yarn lifts though shedding the weft yarn is then inserted by a electronic device. One motion of this action is known as a pick.

Beating Up/Battening: All of the warp yarns are threaded through the hole in the heddle and through a reed. A reed is a comb like device which pushes the newly formed weave line against all previous weave lines. This ensures that the weave it tight and strong.

Taking Up and Letting Off: As all of the other previous steps are in progress the newly formed weave fabric is wound onto a beam and is known as taking up. While this is happening all of the warp yarns are released from the beams they are attached to. This is known as letting off.

These steps are constantly continued until the desired length of fabric has been produced.

9d614208b248df4ccfc565488eaf92de0ff1d0eb — Plain Weave Structure

Physical Properties

The plain weave is a very durable and strong weave. It is hydrophobic and has a low rate of absorbency. It has a moderate elasticity but only on the bias of the fabric.

Atheistic properties

The plain weave due to the way it is made has both sides being identical. The weight can range from light to heavy depending on what fibre is used during production. The plan weave has a tendency to wrinkle or crease. The more weaves used in the fabric the firmer the weave will be.

7230

Uses

One end use of a plain weave is in blouses as they have to be made to be strong and durable a plain weave is ideal. Another reason a plain weave is commonly used is due to it being able to be woven with a sheer fibre.

weili-zheng-solid-colour-plain-weave-long-sleeves-blouse-womens-clothing-61w2mrzt-4312-870x664

Another garment in which a plain weave is commonly used is in dresses. This is an ideal weave for dresses as it can be woven from a sheer to heavy fabric which can be suited for almost any dress. it can also be adjusted how firm the weave is and this can change the drape of the garment.

Long dress 34796830AM BLACK CORAL Composition 100 Cotton plain weave NXMQSSE

References

britannica. (2010). Plain Weave. Available: https://www.britannica.com/technology/plain-weave. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

BBC. (2018). Fabrics. Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/fabricsrev1.shtml. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Heather Marie Akou. (2018). Plain Weave. Available: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/plain-weave. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

textile fashion study. (2018). Plain Weave. Available: http://textilefashionstudy.com/plain-weave-properties-of-plain-weave-ornamentation-techniques-of-plain-cloth/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Textile School. (2018). Plain Weaves. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/123/plain-weaves/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Kelly Mitchell. (2018). Normal/Plain Weave. Available: http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-dictionary/normalplain-weave/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

textile learner. (2018). Plain Weave | Characteristics of Plain Weave | Principle of Plain Weave. Available: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/03/definition-and-characteristics-of-plain_4390.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Wearexyst. (2018). Women’s Clothing – WEILI ZHENG solid colour plain weave long sleeves Blouse Women’s Clothing – 61W2MRZTP.Available: http://www.wearexyst.co.uk/weili-zheng-solid-colour-plain-weave-long-sleeves-blouse-womens-clothing-61w2mrztp.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

king of rings. (2018). Long dress 34796830AM BLACK CORAL Composition: 100% Cotton plain weave NXMQSSE. Available: http://www.wrentcar.com/dresses-c-1_2/long-dress-34796830am-black-coral-composition-100-cotton-plain-weave-nxmqsse-p-3826.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Kathryn L. Hatch (2018). Textile Science . New York : West Publishing . 319.

Textile School. (2018). Weaving Machine – basic operations. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/361/weaving-machine-basic-operations/. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Fair-isle

19th Nov 201820th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Production

The Fair-Isle knit originated on an island called Fair-Isle which lies between Orkney and Shetland. The term Fair-Isle is now being used more as a term for multicoloured knitwear rather than knitwear from the Fair-Isle island. Float stitches also known as Welt stitches are used in order to create the pattern on the garment and is composed of interloping strands of yarn. Fair Isle is a type of Stranded colorwork knitting which uses two colours of yarn at a time in order to create designs. Fair Isle knit in industry is normally created on a circular knitting machine

A circular knitting machine takes the yarn from cones and fed through a tube then through what is known as a knot catcher which will untangle any knows which has become present in the yarn. After this the yarn is put through a feeder which will guide the yarn towards the needle bed where it will be knitted. A roller will then remove the fabric from the machine to make way for the next.ng machine.

Image-1-08-08-17

Physical Properties

Fair Isle knit has a low elasticity due to it being a double knit. It is normally soft and a natural insulator but can depend on what fibre was used for the yarn.

Atheistic properties

Fair Isle knit is a very colourful form of knit that uses two different colours of thread at a time to knit. Fair Isle knit is made in vertically symmetrical patterns.

fair-isle-knitting_2

Uses

One thing fair isle knit is commonly used for is jumpers. This is due to it being soft and a natural insulator as well as the bright patterns it comes in makes it very attractive looking.

download

Another use of fair isle knit is in the use of cardigans. This is once again due to the soft and insulating properties it has as well as the colours and patterns which can be produced.

orizuru_tots_fairisle_knit_cardigan_multicoloured1_1

References

Exclusively Fair Isle. (2019 ). The history of Fair Isle knitwear.Available: https://www.exclusivelyfairisle.co.uk/history-of-fair-isle-knitting.php. Last accessed 14/01/19.

West Coast Knitters . (2013). The Secret to Speed in Fair Isle Knitting.Available: https://westcoastknitter.wordpress.com/2013/09/19/the-secret-to-speed-in-fair-isle-knitting/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Karma Gear. (2019). Blossom Retro Fair Isle Knit Jumper S. Available: https://karmagear.co.uk/product/blossom-retro-fair-isle-knit-jumper-s/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Tootsa. (2019 ). ORIZURU Fairisle Knit Cardigan/Multicoloured.Available: https://www.tootsa.com/orizuru-fairisle-knit-cardigan-multicoloured. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Grebe. (2019). Grebe. Available: http://grebeproject.eu/2017/08/08/fair-isle-one-uks-remote-inhabited-islands-will-soon-247-supply-electricity/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Textile Chapter. (2019). Circular Knitting Machine in Textile: A Details Discussion . Available: https://textilechapter.blogspot.com/2018/02/circular-knitting-machine-textile-industry.html. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Fashion Apparel. (2019). Woring principle of circular knitting machine . Available: http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/06/working-principle-circular-knitting-machine.html. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Mary Scot Huff. (2019). Knitting: Stranded Colorwork Explained. Available: https://www.dummies.com/crafts/knitting/designs-patterns/knitting-stranded-colorwork-explained/. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Catwalk Yourself. (2019). Weft knitting. Available: http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-dictionary/weft-knitting/. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Rayon

19th Nov 201814th Jan 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Origin

Rayon is the first fibre to be made by man and was sold as an artificial silk. It is made from the cellulose in the pulp of trees or cotton. The invention of rayon came when a disease that affected silkworms threatened to halt silk production in France during the 1860’s. Count Hilaire de Chardonnet was studying a way to save the silk industry and came up with the idea of creating an artificial silk. During the year 1885 he created the first usable fibre from cellulose. Until the year 1925 it was known as artificial silk and the Federal Trade Commission renamed the fibre Rayon.

rayon-fabric-500x500

Preparation

When made from trees Rayon normally is based off the pulp off pine, spruce and hemlock trees. There are three main processes in the preparation of Rayon fibres. These are purifying cellulose, producing filaments and spinning.

The first step to preparing Rayon is purifying cellulose. This happens when sheets of cellulose are put in a sodium hydroxide solution which will turn the cellulose alkaline. The sheets are then dried and shredded before being left in metal containers for up to 3 days. After this the shredded cellulose and mixed with carbon disulfide where it becomes a honey like consistency. The mixture is then aged for up to 5 days before being filtered to remove any impurities. The mixture is next put through a spinneret into a tank of acid which turns the mixture into a solid substance.

The next step of producing Rayon Fibres is called spinning. This is when the fibres are spun into yarn ready to be turned into fabric. The way the fibres are spun depends on what type of yarn is desired. The fibres are spun onto spools ready to be turned into fabric.

rayon-production — Rayon being Manufactured

Physical Properties Of Fibres

Rayon is a hydrophillic fibre which is even more absorbent than cotton. The downside to its absorbance is that it loses up to 50% of its strength when it has absorbed water. It is fairly strong when dry.

It is a very comfortable and breathable fibre.

Aesthetic Properties Of Fibres

Rayon is a fibre which is very easy to dye in any colour due to its high absorbency. It does not produce any static and does not pill. Rayon is not usually damaged with the use of acids or bleach to its surface and on its own when not blended has a high lustre. The downside to Rayon is that it is prone to creasing and shrinks under high heat. It also does not resist mildew.

References

Textile School. (2018). Manmade Regenerated Cellulose Fibers.Available: http://www.textileschool.com/448/man-made-regenerated-cellulose-fibres/. Last accessed 14/01/19

How products are made. (2019). Rayon. Available: http://www.madehow.com/Volume-1/Rayon.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Textile School. (2018). Characteristics of Rayon Fiber. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/195/characteristics-of-rayon-fiber/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

fabric whole sale direct. (2019). RAYON CHALLIS . Available: https://www.fabricwholesaledirect.com/products/rayon-challis-fabric. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Trusted Clothes. (2016). RAYON-PRODUCTION. Available: https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/04/21/ethical-fabrics-to-consider-the-ugly-draft/rayon-production/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Camille Myers Breeze, Tegan Kehoe. (2013). Rayon Through the Years, Part II. Available: http://www.museumtextiles.com/blog/category/rayon. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Felting

13th Nov 201820th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Production

The main fibre used when making felt is wool. The wool is mixed with another fibre normally synthetic in order for the felt to last longer. The synthetic fibres that are mixed with the wool normally consist of either Nylon or Polyester.

The first step of producing felt is to mix the chosen fibres together. The wool along with the synthetic fibre chosen are put into a machine which contains nails that will mix the fibres together.

After this process the fibre mixture is put in a carding machine which will matt the fibres together to form a web like structure. This is done between two carding machines to ensure the fibres are matted properly and form a thick web. After the fibres have been carded twice a comb like device is used to remove the web from the carding machine and rolls up the fibres. The fibres are now known as a batt and are the basis of felt.

The next step in the process of making felt is to apply heat and moisture to the batting layers so they will stick together. This is done by putting the batting through a steam table.

The next step is to shrink the felt to the desired size, this is done through a process called fuling. The felt is coated with a chemical and water solution and forced through a pair of rollers, this causes the fabric to shrink and also become denser.

The felt is then soaked in another chemical bath in order to neutralise the chemicals which it previously absorbed. It is then pressed through rollers a final time in order to ensure the felt is smooth.

If the fabric is to be dyed it is sent to a dying vat in order to dye the felt otherwise it will be sent straight to the drying phase. The felt is taken to a large dryer where the felt is dried.

Finally the felt is ironed a final time to ensure smoothness and to make even denser before the edges are cut off and the felt is ready to use.

Physical Properties

Felt is a very resilient fabric which can withstand chemical damage easily. It is a fire retardant fabric and can also self extinguish. This makes it a very safe fabric to use. It is a insulator which will keep you warm in winter and cool in summer. It I a hydrophilic fabric and has excellent absorption. A downside to felt is that it has no elastic resistance or strength so can easily tear.

felt 2

Atheistic properties

Felt is a very dense fabric so keeps a ridged shape and has no draping properties. It also does not have any lustre. Despite these points felt is a very soft fabric which never frays and cuts with a smooth clean edge. It is also wear resistant.

felt

Uses

One of the uses of felt in the fashion industry is the use of felt to make hats. This is due to felt being a ridged material which will hold its shape as well as it being very safe to use. As it does not fray and cuts with a clean edge I is an ideal fabric to use when making hats.

Another use for felt is to make items such as slippers. This is once again due to the safety of this material as well as it being an insulator. Another reason for felt being a popular choice is due to it being wear resistant which essential in footwear as well as the fact the material is ridged and does not fray.

top-felt-slippers-3 — Slippers made from felt.

References

Made How. (2018). Felt. Available: http://www.madehow.com/Volume-7/Felt.html. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Atena . (2018). Advantages of Felt . Available: https://www.aetnafelt.com/pages/advantages-of-felt. Last accessed 27/11/18.

BBC GCSE Bitesize. (2018). Fabrics . Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/fabricsrev3.shtml. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Wikipedia . (2018). Carding . Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carding. Last accessed 27/11/18

Etsy. (2018). Dream Felt Premium Wool Batting NATURAL Collections. Available: https://www.etsy.com/listing/74443718/dream-felt-premium-wool-batting-natural. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Ebay. (2018). 100% wool felt 1mm thick per metre sheet 90cm wide natural melange colours . Available: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-wool-felt-1mm-thick-per-metre-sheet-90cm-wide-natural-melange-colours-/121356330153. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Ebay. (2018). 100% Wool Felt Fabric – 3mm Thick – Dark Grey European Felt – 1 Yard x 0.5 Yard . Available: https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Wool-Felt-Fabric-3mm-Thick-Dark-Grey-European-Felt-1-Yard-x-0-5-Yard-/310959365131. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Village Hat Shop. (2018). Hats and Caps. Available: https://www.villagehatshop.com/. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Emma Grady. (2010). Wool “Barefoot” Slippers by Top-Felt Can be Worn Year Round. Available: https://www.treehugger.com/style/wool-barefoot-slippers-by-top-felt-can-be-worn-year-round.html. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Pique

13th Nov 201820th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Production

The fabric Pique is also known by the name Marcella and is popular in menswear and it is normally knitted with a cotton yarn. It is characterised by raised parallel cords in which yarn is knitted around to create its structure. It can be made in to many different patterns such as the honeycomb or waffle pattern. The stitches this fabric is made of is the knit stitch and the purl stitch. This is done on a circular knitting machine.

Physical Properties

Pique is a very popular choice in knit due to it being highly breathable due to the way which it has been knitted. It is of medium weight and is much stiffer than cotton due to the way that the fabric is knitted. Pique has an excellent stretch and is comfortable on the skin.

Atheistic properties

Pique is a very durable knit and has a unique texture. The downside to this type of knit is that is it prone to creasing so must be pressed often. It has a raised ribbing look to it and does not show up perspiration stains easily.

6184-min

Uses

Pique is very popular in sportswear and is most commonly seen in polo shirts. This is due to it being very breathable due to how it is knitted and doesn’t deteriorate easily due to frequent washing of the fabric.

References

Acorn Fabrics . (2016). What is cotton pique fabric?. Available: https://www.acornfabrics.com/blog/what-is-pique-fabric/. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Difference Between . (2018). Differences Between Jersey and Pique. Available: http://www.differencebetween.net/object/differences-between-jersey-and-pique/. Last accessed 27/11/18

Reference*. (2018). What Is a Pique Fabric?. Available: https://www.reference.com/hobbies-games/pique-fabric-f796381715429d9f. Last accessed 27/11/18.

The Sewing Partner. (2019). Pique Fabric – A Ribbed Fabric Member Of The Cotton Family. Available: https://www.the-sewing-partner.com/pique-fabric.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Grand Millennium . (2019). LOO253. Available: http://grandmillenniumint.com/products/c583_Textile-Machinery/c629_LOOMS/i1604_2-x-19m-21m-SOMET-THEMA-II-RAPIER-DOBBY-LOOM-198993.aspx. Last accessed 14/01/19.

fabrics . (2019). Telio Paola Pique Knit Seafoam Fabric. Available: https://www.fabric.com/buy/0347011/paola-pique-knit-seafoam. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Mood Fabrics. (2019). Pique knit fabric. Available: https://www.moodfabrics.com/fashion-fabrics/stretch-and-knits/pique. Last accessed 15/01/19.

Leather

12th Nov 201820th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Production

Leather can be made from the hide of almost any animal such as cows, pigs, sheep, or even crocodiles. To be more sustainable cow is the most common animal used for leather due to it commonly being killed for meat. This way the animal is not being wasted.

cow

The first step in preparing leather is to remove the skin off the animal. Then the flesh is removed either using a fleshing machine or by hand. This is done as fast as possible so that the skin does not dry out.

The hide is then placed in a salt brine in order to stop the hide drying out and decomposing. A chemical called calcium oxide is used to soak the hide in order to remove any hair. After soaking, the hide will have swollen so it is possible to cut it in half. The two layers of leather can be used for different products.

The next stage is called tanning. This process is done in order to preserve the hide and stop it from decomposing. The hide is placed into a tanning drum along with a solution. What this solution consists on depends on what type of leather is being made. After being left in the tanning drum the hides are put through a roller which applies high pressure to the hide and removes any extra moisture in the hide. The hide is then shaved so the hide all measures the same length in width. The leather scraps can be used in making belts and other accessories. The leather is sometimes tanned a second time.

The final step is to dry the hide. The hides are most often vacuum dried. This dries the hide extremely quickly but can sometimes cause the leather shrink slightly but will leave the leather smooth.

automatic-conveyor-leather-drying-machine-drying-tunnel-500x500 — Leather being vacuum dried.

Physical Properties

Leather is an extremely strong and resilient fabric. It resists warping from being stretched. Leather is also a good insulator of heat. it is a hydrophobic fabric and does not absorb water.

Atheistic properties

Leather is a very soft and smooth fabric with a high lustre. It is also an extremely safe fabric as it is non flammable and resists mildew.

leather

Uses

Leather is a very common fabric used in the fashion industry. One of the most well known uses of leather in fashion are for leather jackets. This is due to it being a good insulator as well as it being soft, smooth and having a high lustre. This makes it a very attractive looking material to use for jackets.

bl_branscombe_blk_exp_big

Another use of leather is in shoes. This is due to the high lustre making it very attractive looking. It is also strong and and resilient which is essential in footwear in order to protect the feel.

References

Mahi Leather. (2018). How is leather made?. Available: https://mahileather.com/blogs/news/how-is-leather-made. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Stephan Meyer. (2015). Where does leather come from?. Available: https://makersrow.com/blog/2015/03/where-does-leather-come-from-leather-manufacturers-tell-the-history-of-leather/. Last accessed 27/11/18

Muirhead . (2018). Leather properties. Available: http://www.muirhead.co.uk/OurLeather/Leather-Properties.aspx. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Lyocell

12th Nov 201827th Nov 2018 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Origin

Lyocell is made from cellulose which is found in all plants. Making fibres from cellulose was a common practice in the 19th century onward although nobody made one commercially until the year 1989. Lyocell was first produced in the year 1992 by the company Courtaulds under the name of Tencel. It more commonly became known as Lyocell in the year 1996 in the United States.

Preparation

Lyocell is produced from the cellulose found in the pulp of hardwood trees. such as Oak and Birch. The trees are harvested and then transported to the mill where the trees are cut to 20ft in length. The trees are then sprayed with powerful jets of water in order to remove the bark. The wood is then put through a chipper before being placed in a vat which is filled with chemicals that will soften the wood into a pulp. After the wood has become a pulp the pulp is washed and bleached before being dried in large sheets. The sheets of pulp now consists of the cellulose of the trees and are then rolled onto spools.

Next the sheets of cellulose are unrolled off the spools once they reach the lyocell mill and are cut into squares each measuring one inch. The squares are then put in a hot pressurised vessel which has been filled with a chemical called amine oxide.

After the cellulose has been soaked in the amine oxide the cellulose will dissolve into a solution and is filtered through a system in order to make sure all the remaining wood chips are removed.

The solution is then put through a spinneret which forces the solution into the desired fibre shape. The solution is forced through the spinneret into another amine oxide solution which hardens the strands into the desired shape.

The lyocell fibres are then dried and a soap or silicone based lubricant is coated over the fibres. Finally the lyocell fibres are taken to a crimping machine. This machine compresses the fibres to add its texture and is finally passed through a carding machine in order to separate the fibres. The lyocell is now ready to be shipped to a fabric mill and turned into fabric.

lyocell-bamboo-fiber-275758 — Lyocell Fibres

Physical Properties Of Fibres

Lyocell is a very strong a durable fabric. It is a hydrophillic fabric meaning is it has excellent absorbency. It is much stronger than wet and can absorb even more than cotton can.

Lyocell is an anti-bacterial fabric and is good for sensitive skin. It is also very breathable as a fabric and can be used on its own or mixed with other fabrics.

Aesthetic Properties Of Fibres

Lyocell is a very soft and lightweight fabric. It is resistant to creasing and can simulate the look of fabrics such as silk, leather or suede. Due to this depending on how it is prepared it can either have a high lustre or a low lustre. It is a easily dyed fibre with an excellent drape.

References

Made How. (2018). Lyocell . Available: http://www.madehow.com/Volume-5/Lyocell.html. Last accessed 27/11/18.

American Fibre Manufacture Accosiation Inc. (2018). Lyocell. Available: http://www.fibersource.com/fiber-products/lyocell-fiber/. Last accessed 27/11/2018.

Simplifi fabric . (2018). Lyocell . Available: https://www.simplififabric.com/pages/lyocell. Last accessed 27/11/18

Papnews. (2016). Wood pulp exports from Russia up 10 per cent in 2015. Available: https://www.papnews.com/wood-pulp-exports-from-russia-up-10-per-cent-in-2015/. Last accessed 27/11/18.

exportsindia. (2018). Lyocell Bamboo Fibre. Available: https://www.exportersindia.com/chinapopulus/lyocell-bamboo-fiber-china-275758.htm. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Polyester

12th Nov 201813th Jan 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Origin

Polyester was first created by the manufacturer DuPoint in the year 1929 by the researcher Wallace Carothers. Due to facing issues with this new fibre DuPoint held off on releasing this fibre and instead focused on Nylon. In the 1940s researchers who worked at the Imperial Chemical Industries worked on polyester until they were able to come up with a usable version of the fibre. DuPoint then bought the rights to the new version of polyester in the year 1945 and started producing what is known as Dacron Polyester in the year 1953.

Preparation

The first step to creating Polyester is known as polymerisation. This is when the chemicals dimethyl terephthalate and ethylene glycol are mixed along with a catalyst in order to create a reaction. This is normally done at a temperature around 150 degrees Celsius. Once the initial reaction has taken place it is mixed with terephthalic acid and the temperature is raised again to a temperature of around 280 degrees Celsius. After this reaction is completed the newly formed substance known as polyester is released through a slot to create long ribbons of polyester.

After polymerisation occurs the long melted ribbons are left to cool until they become brittle. After this it is cut into very small chunks and left to finish drying.

The polymer chips are then melted at temperatures around 500 degrees Celsius, this forms a solution with the consistency of syrup. The solution is then put through a mould like machine called a spinneret. This machine forces the solution into the shape of a single strand.

The next step is known as drawing the fibre. This is when the fibres are stretched so that the molecules within will form a single chain to increase the strength and resiliency. Now when the fibres dry for the second time they will no longer be brittle and instead be solid.

polytester staple fiber — Polyester Fibres

The final step is to wind the fibres onto a bobbin ready to be produced into fabrics.

Physical Properties Of Fibres

Polyester is very well known as being a strong and resilient fibre. It is a hydrophobic fibre and has low absorbency so will dry extremely quickly. Due to this it can be uncomfortable to wear in warm places.

Aesthetic Properties Of Fibres

Polyester does not stretch or shrink. It is also very easy to wash and dry and can easily handle continuous washing. It is also very unlikely to crease so almost never needs ironed. It is not affected by bleaching or acids due to its strength.

polyester

Unfortunately due to how strong the fibres are when the fabric is cut into short lengths is prone to pilling. Polyester when burnt releases a strong chemical smell and the residue can cause severe burns on this skin so is not commonly used on its own but is instead mixed with other fibres or treated with chemicals to make it flame resistant.

References

Elizabeth D. Lowe. (2018). Polyester. Available: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/polyester. Last accessed 27/11/18.

What is Polyester. (2018). What is Polyester. Available: http://www.whatispolyester.com/history.html. Last accessed 27/11/18.

what is polyester. (2018). What is Polyester – Manufacturing of Polyester. Available: http://www.whatispolyester.com/manufacturing.html. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Made How. (2018). Polyester. Available: http://www.madehow.com/Volume-2/Polyester.html. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Textile fashion study . (2012). Polyester – Physical and Chemical Properties of Polyester. Available: http://textilefashionstudy.com/polyester-physical-and-chemical-properties-of-polyester/. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Marjhon Sheikhi. (2015). Researcher improves polyester fabric dyeability . Available: https://en.mehrnews.com/news/108927/Researcher-improves-polyester-fabric-dyeability. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Textile Flowchart . (2017). Flow Chart of Polyester Fiber Production . Available: http://www.textileflowchart.com/2015/08/flow-chart-of-polyester-fiber-production.html. Last accessed 27/11/18

Acrylic

12th Nov 201811th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Origin

Acrylic fibre is commonly known as an artificial wool. It was first invented by the company DuPoint in the year 1944 and was released to be used commercially in the year 1950. It was originally designed as a cheaper alternative to using wool and other natural fibres.

1595364_0_Acrylic Fabric — Acrylic fabric

Preparation

Acrylic fibres are made from fossil fuel which uses a chemical process which is similar to the production of Nylon and Polyester. The materials it is made from are petroleum, natural gasses and occasionally coal.

When both a high heat and intense pressure is used on the selected fossil fuel a plastic solution is formed in a process known as polymerisation. Polymerisation is a process where a group of molecules are bonded into a molecular chain which repeats itself. After this process occurs the solution is in a state where it is neither a solid nor a liquid which is known as being in a viscose form. At this stage the solution can be dyed to the desired colour. After this stage when the fibres become solids it is no longer possible to dye.

The next stage is when the solution is spun through what is known as spinnerets. These are tools which hold the size and shape of the yarn desired much like a mould would. The solution is spun through the spinnerets and then exits the spinnerets into either air or water where it rapidly cools and becomes its solid from. Next the fibres are washed and cut into the desired length of fibre. Finally the fibres are spun into a thread and are ready to be incorporated into a fabric.

Physical Properties Of Fibres

Acrylic is a very soft and resilient fibre. It is hydrophobic so does not absorb water. Acrylic has the same insulation properties as wool so will keep you warm in the winter.

The downsides to acrylic as a fibre is that it is prone to creating static. It is also very flammable and once lit is very difficult to extinguish. Due to this it is not a safe material to use in clothing on its own and requires it to be mixed with another fibre in order to minimise the risk of it setting on fire. Another possibility is a flame retardant chemical finish.

Aesthetic Properties Of Fibres

Acrylic like wool is a very lightweight fibre. It has resistance to being discoloured in sunlight as well as a resistance to being damaged by acids. As it is a hydrophobic fibre with little to no absorbance it is not an easy fibre to dye as is why it is done during the manufacturing stage and not after the fibres have been spun.

Acrylic is a easy fibre to wash and retains its shape when washed repeatedly and has a high lustre.

References

textile school. (2018). Acryllic Fibres. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/121/acrylic-fibres-manmade-artificial-fibres/. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Natural Clothing . (2018). What Is Acrylic Fabric?. Available: https://www.naturalclothing.com/what-is-acrylic-fabric/. Last accessed 27/11/18

all about dying . (2018). How to dye acryllic yarn and fabric . Available: http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/how_to_dye_acrylic.shtml. Last accessed 27/11/18.

American Fibre Manufacturer Association Inc. (2018). Acrylic. Available: http://www.fibersource.com/fiber-products/acrylic-fiber/. Last accessed 27/11.18.

Mazharul Islam Kiron. (2018). Manufacturing Process of Polyester Fiber | Production Process of Polyester Fiber . Available: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/07/polyester-fiber-manufacturing-process_7309.html. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Fiber 2 fashion . (2018). Acrylic fabric : 107 GSM, 100% Acrylic, Grey, Plain Supplier . Available: https://www.fibre2fashion.com/fabrics/acrylic-fabric-suppliers-1595364. Last accessed 27/11/18.

American Fibre Manufacturing Accociation Inc. (2018). Manufacturing. Available: http://www.fibersource.com/fiber-world-classroom/manufacturing/. Last accessed 27/11/18.