Category: Knits

Fair-isle

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Production

The Fair-Isle knit originated on an island called Fair-Isle which lies between Orkney and Shetland. The term Fair-Isle is now being used more as a term for multicoloured knitwear rather than knitwear from the Fair-Isle island. Float stitches also known as Welt stitches are used in order to create the pattern on the garment and is composed of interloping strands of yarn. Fair Isle is a type of Stranded colorwork knitting which uses two colours of yarn at a time in order to create designs. Fair Isle knit in industry is normally created on a circular knitting machine

A circular knitting machine takes the yarn from cones and fed through a tube then through what is known as a knot catcher which will untangle any knows which has become present in the yarn. After this the yarn is put through a feeder which will guide the yarn towards the needle bed where it will be knitted. A roller will then remove the fabric from the machine to make way for the next.ng machine.

 

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Physical Properties

Fair Isle knit has a low elasticity due to it being a double knit. It is normally soft and a natural insulator but can depend on what fibre was used for the yarn.

Atheistic properties

Fair Isle knit is a very colourful form of knit that uses two different colours of thread at a time to knit. Fair Isle knit is made in vertically symmetrical patterns.

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Uses

One thing fair isle knit is commonly used for is jumpers. This is due to it being soft and a natural insulator as well as the bright patterns it comes in makes it very attractive looking.

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Another use of fair isle knit is in the use of cardigans. This is once again due to the soft and insulating properties it has as well as the colours and patterns which can be produced.

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References

Exclusively Fair Isle. (2019 ). The history of Fair Isle knitwear.Available: https://www.exclusivelyfairisle.co.uk/history-of-fair-isle-knitting.php. Last accessed 14/01/19.

West Coast Knitters . (2013). The Secret to Speed in Fair Isle Knitting.Available: https://westcoastknitter.wordpress.com/2013/09/19/the-secret-to-speed-in-fair-isle-knitting/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Karma Gear. (2019). Blossom Retro Fair Isle Knit Jumper S. Available: https://karmagear.co.uk/product/blossom-retro-fair-isle-knit-jumper-s/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Tootsa. (2019 ). ORIZURU Fairisle Knit Cardigan/Multicoloured.Available: https://www.tootsa.com/orizuru-fairisle-knit-cardigan-multicoloured. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Grebe. (2019). Grebe. Available: http://grebeproject.eu/2017/08/08/fair-isle-one-uks-remote-inhabited-islands-will-soon-247-supply-electricity/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Textile Chapter. (2019). Circular Knitting Machine in Textile: A Details Discussion . Available: https://textilechapter.blogspot.com/2018/02/circular-knitting-machine-textile-industry.html. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Fashion Apparel. (2019). Woring principle of circular knitting machine . Available: http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/06/working-principle-circular-knitting-machine.html. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Mary Scot Huff. (2019). Knitting: Stranded Colorwork Explained. Available: https://www.dummies.com/crafts/knitting/designs-patterns/knitting-stranded-colorwork-explained/. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Catwalk Yourself. (2019). Weft knitting. Available: http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-dictionary/weft-knitting/. Last accessed 14/03/19.

 

 

Pique

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Production

The fabric Pique is also known by the name Marcella and is popular in menswear and it is normally knitted with a cotton yarn. It is characterised by raised parallel cords in which yarn is knitted around to create its structure. It can be made in to many different patterns such as the honeycomb or waffle pattern. The stitches this fabric is made of is the knit stitch and the purl stitch. This is done on a circular knitting machine.

A circular knitting machine takes the yarn from cones and fed through a tube then through what is known as a knot catcher which will untangle any knows which has become present in the yarn. After this the yarn is put through a feeder which will guide the yarn towards the needle bed where it will be knitted. A roller will then remove the fabric from the machine to make way for the next.

 

 

Physical Properties

Pique is a very popular choice in knit due to it being highly breathable due to the way which it has been knitted. It is of medium weight and is much stiffer than cotton due to the way that the fabric is knitted. Pique has an excellent stretch and is comfortable on the skin.

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Pique fabric

Atheistic properties

Pique is a very durable knit and has a unique texture. The downside to this type of knit is that is it prone to creasing so must be pressed often. It has a raised ribbing look to it and does not show up perspiration stains easily.

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Uses

Pique is very popular in sportswear and is most commonly seen in polo shirts. This is due to it being very breathable due to how it is knitted and doesn’t deteriorate easily due to frequent washing of the fabric.

 

 

References

Acorn Fabrics . (2016). What is cotton pique fabric?. Available: https://www.acornfabrics.com/blog/what-is-pique-fabric/. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Difference Between . (2018). Differences Between Jersey and Pique. Available: http://www.differencebetween.net/object/differences-between-jersey-and-pique/. Last accessed 27/11/18

Reference*. (2018). What Is a Pique Fabric?. Available: https://www.reference.com/hobbies-games/pique-fabric-f796381715429d9f. Last accessed 27/11/18.

The Sewing Partner. (2019). Pique Fabric – A Ribbed Fabric Member Of The Cotton Family. Available: https://www.the-sewing-partner.com/pique-fabric.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Grand Millennium . (2019). LOO253. Available: http://grandmillenniumint.com/products/c583_Textile-Machinery/c629_LOOMS/i1604_2-x-19m-21m-SOMET-THEMA-II-RAPIER-DOBBY-LOOM-198993.aspx. Last accessed 14/01/19.

fabrics . (2019). Telio Paola Pique Knit Seafoam Fabric. Available: https://www.fabric.com/buy/0347011/paola-pique-knit-seafoam. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Mood Fabrics. (2019). Pique knit fabric. Available: https://www.moodfabrics.com/fashion-fabrics/stretch-and-knits/pique. Last accessed 15/01/19.

Textile Chapter. (2019). Circular Knitting Machine in Textile: A Details Discussion . Available: https://textilechapter.blogspot.com/2018/02/circular-knitting-machine-textile-industry.html. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Fashion Apparel. (2019). Woring principle of circular knitting machine . Available: http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/06/working-principle-circular-knitting-machine.html. Last accessed 14/03/19.

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Rib-knit

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Production

A rib knit fabric is a fabric which is knitted in both raised and lowered rows next to each other. This creates distinguished wales in the fabric on both sides. It is knitted with a combination of  an alternative knit stitch and a purl stitch in rows which creates the ribbed look on each side of the fabric, this makes the fabric reversible as both sides look identical to each other. Rib knit fabric can be knitted with both a flat or a circular knitting machine with two alternating single needles.

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Structure of Rib Knit

Physical Properties

Rib knit is a soft fabric which has high insulation meaning it will keep you warm in the cold. It doesn’t have a tendency to curl.

 

Atheistic properties

Rib knit fabric has excellent elasticity, even better than jersey fabric. it is also good at retaining its shape and is unlikely to warp or look distorted after stretching.  It is a thick fabric that is reversible so both sides will look identical. It has no lustre.

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Rib Knit Fabric

Uses

One of the ways rib knit fabric can be used to rib certain parts of clothing such as sleeve cuffs and necklines in order to create texture and interest in the piece.

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An example of Rib Knit used to rib clothing

Another way rib knit is used is to create garments such as cardigans and sweaters. This is due to it being a highly stretchy fabric which is a natural insulator. This makes it ideal for winter wear.

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Rib knit Sweater

 

References

Textile School. (2018). Knitted fabrics and types – list of knitted fabrics. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/251/knitted-fabrics-and-types/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Urbanana. (2019 ). RIB KNIT . Available: http://journal.urbanara.co.uk/journal/buying-guide/rib-knit/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Ailge textile co . (2019). OUR PRODUCTS. Available: http://www.ailige-fabric.com/html/Advantages-and-disadvantages-of-knitted-fabrics-1319.. Last accessed 14/01/19.

textile learner. (2019). Difference Between Plain Knit Fabric and Rib Fabric. Available: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/07/difference-between-plain-knit-fabric.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Jo Annes Knitting Guide . (2018). Rib structure. Available: https://www.knittingmagic.biz/practical-guide/rib-structure.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.

RW and Co. (2019). Leather Gloves With Ribbed Cuff. Available: https://www.rw-co.com/en/leather-gloves-with-ribbed-cuff/770231.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Misguided. (2019). grey high neck ribbed jumper. Available: https://www.missguided.co.uk/grey-high-neck-ribbed-jumper. Last accessed 14/01/19.

 

Jersey

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Production

Jersey knit is most commonly made from cotton fibres but can also be made from other fibres such as silk and wool. Jersey was named after the isle of Jersey in the Channel Islands which is where it was originally made to make fisherman’s sweaters. There are three main types of jersey made which are Single Jersey, Double Jersey and Jacquard Jersey. Although other variants of jersey can be found.

Jersey fabric is typically knitted what is known as a circular jersey knitting machinesand are the fastest knit to produce due to the structure only consisting of the basic knitting stitch. The yarns are kept on cones and fed through a single needle bed before being knitted into the basic knit stitch. The basic knit stitch is where each loop is threaded through the loop beneath it, the row of loops are known as wales. After the fabric is knitted it falls into the centre of the knitting machine and is collected by a roller at the bottom of the machine. Due to being produced from a knit stitch the finished fabric looks different on both sides. A single knit jersey is made of a single layer throughout with one set of needles being used.

What is known as latch needles are present in a circular needle bed with hooks facing out and raises and drops in order to pull newly formed loops into the previous loop of the knit stitch.

 

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Single Jersey
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Structure of Jersey

A double jersey fabric has a very similar structure to the single jersey, the only difference being that two layers of jersey are being knitted together in order to create a thicker and stronger structure compared to the single knit jersey. They are knitted with a double set of needles instead of a single set. Double knit jersey does not stretch as well as the single knit does.

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Double Jersey

Jacquard Jersey is a more complicated variation of a single knit jersey where multiple colours of threads can be used to knit together in order to create texture on the jersey.

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Jacquard Jersey

 

 

Physical Properties

Single Jersey is a very lightweight fabric. It has excellent insulation so it will keep you cool in the heat and warm in the cold. It has a a low lustre and is soft to the touch. Especially when made with cotton it is a very breathable fabric which is why it is so popular in sportswear.

Double jersey however is a much heavier fabric due to having an extra layer than the single knit jersey. It still has very good insulation so it will keep you cool in the heat and warm in the cold. It has a a low lustre and is soft to the touch.

 

 

Atheistic properties

Jersey has a excellent drape, the best out of he three basic knits and is very crease resistant making it a popular knit to use. It is also a stretchy fabric and can stretch up to 20 % its length. Double knit jersey cannot stretch as far though due to the layers being interlocked. When cut jersey tends to curl at the ends, this is due to it being produced from the basic knit stitch and can make cutting and sewing jersey difficult. Another negative of jersey’s structure is it’s tendency to start running or laddering.

 

Uses

Jersey is often seen to be used in sportswear due to its stretch, high breathability insulation properties and also its resistance to creasing. This makes it a versatile fabric to use in sportswear.

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Jersey is also popular in daywear items such as t-shirts, poloshirts and dresses. This was first introduced by Coco Chanel when she opened her first store in Paris. She was inspired by sportswear and used to fabric due to the excellent draping and that it was very cheap to buy. This worked excellently for Chanel and suited her customers increasingly fast paced lifestyles.

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Coco Chanel, 1913 wearing a Jersey suit.

References

love your clothes. (2018). FABRIC FOCUS: JERSEY. Available: https://www.loveyourclothes.org.uk/guides/fabric-focus-jersey. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Marie Botkin. (2018). jersey fabric. Available: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/jersey-fabric. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Urbanana. (2019). JERSEY Read more at: http://journal.urbanara.co.uk/journal/buying-guide/jersey/ Follow us: @URBANARA on Twitter | /URBANARA.co.uk on Facebook @URBANARA on Instagram | /URBANARA on Pinterest. Available: http://journal.urbanara.co.uk/journal/buying-guide/jersey/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Vouge Australia . (2010). Coco Chanel Was the Original Jersey Girl .Available: https://www.vogue.com.au/fashion/news/coco-chanel-was-the-original-jersey-girl/news-story/805ae884ab158711852cf19ee817ceed?. Last accessed 14/01/19.

india mart. (2019). Cotton Single Jersey Fabri. Available: https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/cotton-single-jersey-fabric-11512621512.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Marian Silviu Poboroniuc. (2019 ). The Single Jersey Structure.Available: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/The-single-jersey-structure_fig2_321408517. Last accessed 14/01/19.

india mart. (2019). Cotton Double Jersey Fabric. Available: https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/cotton-double-jersey-fabric-16447877997.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Ali Express. (2019). cardigan jacquard jersey clothing knit fabric sweater soft knit stretch cloth material tissue. Available: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/cardigan-stretch-knitting-tissue-jacquard-jersey-clothing-fabric-sweater-soft-knit-material/32782282558.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Mrs Bennetts. (2019). WORKOUT FABRIC JERSEY SKI SOFT JERSEY FABRIC 38BL-9081 – WOMEN RUNNING SHORT SLEEVE TOPS WHOLESALE ADIDAS RUNNING SHORT SLEEVE TOPS ULTIMATE SS TEE TRAINING WORKOUT FABRIC JERSEY SKI SOFT JERSEY FABRI.Available: http://www.mrsbennetts.co.uk/wholesale-adidas-running-short-sleeve-tops-ultimate-ss-tee-training-workout-fabric-jersey-ski-soft-jersey-fabric-38bl9081-women-running-short-sleeve-tops-p-2725.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.