Origin

Linen is one of the oldest fibres to exist in the world and there is evidence of it being grown for textile purpose 36,000 years ago in the United Stats. In ancient Egypt linen was used to wrap mummies as it was a symbol of purity and wealth. It was considered such a luxury in ancient Egypt that it was sometimes used as a form of money.

Preparation

Linen fibres are found inside the stalks of the flax plant and is known as one of the oldest plants grown in human history. Flax can only grow for one season a year which means only one crop can be grown per year. The flax plant can grow up to 4 feet tall and requires little attention during the growing process which makes it popular among farmers. It will normally grow in damp, cool environments.

The flax is harvested for linen once the flowers on the plant become yellow in colour. Most of the time the flax plant is harvested including the roots, this is due to the linen fibres running through both the stalk and roots of the plant. This also prevents the oils leaking out of the plant which will dry out the fibres within and make them a poorer quality.  The highest quality flax is harvested by hand rather than with machinery. This is due to a machine not yet being developed that will keep the flax preserved with the roots still attached.

The flax plant is then dried for several weeks before the seeds are removed in a process known as thrashing. After this the xylem and phloem within the stem of the plant has to be separated in order to reach the linen fibres. This is done through a process called retting.  This is when the flax plants are weighed down in a body of water so that the remaining pant surrounding the linen rots away. This process can take up to several weeks.

The final step in separating the fibres from the flax is known as scrutching. This is a  process where the flax is run through a machine which runs along the remaining plant and fibre in order to remove any remaining plant. The filaments are then ran through a bed of nails that splits the fibres apart.

Finally the fibres are spun on a distaff which is a pole which is attached onto a spinning wheel where the fibres are hung. The filaments are dampened during the spinning process to prevent it breaking or fraying. The fibres are spun onto a bobbin where they are now considered yarn ready for weaving.

Physical Properties Of Fibres

Linen is a hydrophillic fibre which can absorb up to 20 times its own weight when wet.  When we it can also become up to 10 times stronger than when it is dry. It is naturally a very strong and durable fibre but can be damaged by the use of acids.

Linen is cool to the touch and is is a heat resistant fibre. As the fibre cannot hold air or heat by itself when made wet it can quickly release moisture and dries very quickly.

Aesthetic Properties Of Fibres

Linen is an inelastic fibre so wont stretch. It has a high lustre which gets better through repeated washing. Through washing this fibre will also become more durable and softer. Linen also has an excellent drape which is why its so popular to use.

References

history of clothing. (2018). History of Linen. Available: http://www.historyofclothing.com/textile-history/history-of-linen/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Deck Towel. (2018). How Linen is Made. Available: https://www.decktowel.com/pages/how-linen-is-made-from-flax-to-fabric. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Christopher Muscato. (2018). Textile Properties of Linen. Available: https://study.com/academy/lesson/textile-properties-of-linen.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Ancient Resource . (2018). Ancient Egyptian Mummy Wrappings.Available: http://www.ancientresource.com/lots/egyptian/mummy_wrappings.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Annies Annuals. (2018). Plants / Linum : Linum lewisii “Blue Flax”.Available: https://www.anniesannuals.com/plants/view/?id=615. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

visegradlive. (2018). visegradlive. Available: http://www.visegradlive.com/herbarium-lan/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

friends of the flaxmill maltings. (2018). Flax to Fabric. Available: http://www.flaxmill-maltings.co.uk/flax-to-fabric. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

blumenkinder heirlooms. (2018). Retting the flax. Available: https://blumenkinderheirlooms.wordpress.com/2014/08/30/retting-the-flax/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Composition of fibres

Cotton is composed of;

• Oxygen (O)
• Carbon (C)
• Hydrogen (H)

Cotton plants are composed of round layers. These layers are made out of ninety percent cellulose, six percent moisture and four percent fats and impurities.

Origin

Cotton is one of the most used textiles in the world as well as being one of the cheapest fibres to produce. It is alot cheaper to produce than animal fibers such as wool. It is not known exactly when cotton was first started to be used as a textile fibre as there is many points throughout history which shows evidence of cotton being grown for textile uses.

Preparation

Cotton fibre grows in bolls around the seeds of a cotton plant in high temperatures and low humiditiy. The cotton fibers are grown in circular layers around the seed and are covered in a hydrophillic waxy coating in order to protect it.

The first part of the preparation of fully grown cotton is called gining, thus is where the fiber of the plant is seperated from the seeds. After being removed from the plant and seeds it is vacuum packed and is dried to raise the quality of the fibers as well as remove any remaining water from the cotton. It is then cleaned to remove any bi-products which can include plant parts and field waste, after this point it is known as raw cotton.

The raw fibers are compressed into large bales and is more commonly known as lint. The lint is then transported to textile mills all over the world where it is spun into thread and then it is finally weaved into a yarn on a loom.

Physical properties of fibres

Cotton has many physical properties which makes it stand out as a fiber. It is a soft and comfortable fiber as well as being non-allergenic as it contains no chemicals which makes it an ideal choice for baby and children clothing, as well as people with skin conditions.

It is a hydrophillic fiber so it highly absorbent and has a ten percent increase in strength when soaked in water. When put in water cotton fiber can hold twenty seven times it’s weight in water. It is in general a very strong fabric and can resist a lot of pull.

It conducts heat very well so is an idea fabric to use during any time of year as the fiber when used in clothing will keep you warm in winter and cool in summer. This fabric cannot conduct any static charges.

Aesthetic properties of fibres

Cotton fibers don’t have any luster so appears matt in finish, although it lacks luster it takes to dye very well due to its high absorbancy and can be dyed in many bright colours with ease. Unfortunately due to the high absorbancy it is very difficult to remove any stains in the fabric.

Cotton is prone to creasing and shrinking in heat so although it must he ironed regularly care must be taken not to iron it at too high a heat as it is also prone to damage from heat.

References

Hans-Dietrich H. Weigmann. (2017). Cotton. Available: https://www.britannica.com/topic/cotton-fibre-and-plant. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

king of cotton. (2018). cotton facts. Available: https://www.kingofcotton.com/article.php/10/cotton_facts. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

cotton australia. (2018). cotton . Available: https://cottonaustralia.com.au/australian-cotton/basics. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Stephanie K Holland (2007). All about fabrics: an intro to needlecraft,. London : Oxford . cotton.