Brief 3 – Tresspass Womenswear

15th Jan 201920th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Brief

The brief has asked for a Waterproof Jacket design for the company Tresspass. This design is to be created for the intention of being sold to women. As this is a design for a sportwear brand the garment will be designed to fit an activewear jacket.

Tresspass jackets tend to have additional qualities that everyday jackets may not have such as added wind proofing or breathability depending on what the intended use for the jacket design is within the activewear category.

The target market for these jackets are aimed at women who are around 20 onwards with a mid income who are looking for high quality activewear which can be used for a variety of things such as hiking, cycling, or running. They are looking for a high quality product which will withstand any weather and last a long time.

The price range for tresspass jackets start at £43 at the cheapest product and end at £250 with the most expensive product.

Design

Fabric Choices

The most popular fabrics seen on the trespass website for waterproof jackets are polyester and poly amine also known as Nylon. For my design I have chosen to make the main fabric 100% polyester with a PU coating and my lining 100% polyester. The thread will be also be made of polyester.

Polyester is a synthetic, woven fibre created by DuPoint in 1929 and released for use in 1953. Polyester is very well known as being a strong and resilient fibre which is ideal for an active wear jacket as it will resist pull and tears. It is a hydrophobic fibre so will repel water from its surface. It has low absorbency so will dry extremely quickly making it ideal for an active wear jacket as it can easily withstand the rain and provide protection to the wearer. I have chosen to add a lining onto the jacket shell as my design has a hood and I want it to look finished and neat. Many outerwear jackets are made of a polyester fabric with a strengthening coating as well as a lining.

I have chosen to use a synthetic fibre instead of a natural fibre due to natural fibres such as cotton, linen and wool have a high absorbency so would not be waterproof. Although acrylic has hydrophobic properties it is commonly used as an artificial wool and has to be blended with another fibre such as wool which would reduce its hydrophobic properties, this is why i chose polyester over acrylic fibres.

The downside to polyester is that when burned can leave residue which can burn the wearer so a Keep Away From Fire warning must be included on the care label. In order to add additional strength to the fabric a PU coating will also be added which is commonly used in outerwear jackets.

PU stands for polyurethane and is a coating commonly used in active wear. This is due to it not only strengthening the fabric to make it more resistant to tears and damage but also adds a waterproof coating to the fabric while still allowing the fabric to move freely. The fabric can be coated once or several times in order to add more of a waterproof element to the garment. Since polyester is naturally a hydrophobic fabric I will be adding a single layer of PU in order to ensure the garment is both strong and waterproof but isn’t bulky or heavy at the same time.

When designing my garment I have taken into consideration how the garment seams will be joined together in order to create a tight seal which water cant seep through. This is done through a technique called seam taping or seam sealing.

Seam taping is when waterproof tape is applied over the seams of the garment. This is done as the stitches of a seam creates a tiny hole where water can seep through. The seam tape is bonded to the seam with a high heat and seals the holes created by the sewing needle. I will be fully seam sealing my garment to ensure there are no points of weakness where the water can permeate the garment.

I have chosen to use a heavy duty polyester thread in my garment due to the strength and waterproof properties of the fibre. As the thread will be used to sew a jacket a heavy duty thread will be more suitable as it will be easier to sew a fabric with flame retardant and PU coating on it.

Aftercare

Washing

A synthetic wash should be used as jacket is made of polyester. Use cleaner designed for waterproof outwear. Wash at 30 degrees to prevent damage to PU coating.

Bleaching

Do not bleach as polyester does not take to bleaching

Ironing

Do not iron as polyester doesn’t tend to crease and heat can damage the PU finish.

Dry Cleaning

May be dry cleaned

Tumble Dry

Do not tumble dry in order to protect PU coating.

Hang Dry

hang/ line dry as garment will not become distorted.

Legislation

The Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition) Regulations 2012

This regulation will ensure the designed garment will carry a label which will state the fibre content of the garment and all individual components will have fibre composition shown on the label with the common name in order not to confuse the consumer. The label must be easy to read and durable as well as easy to access. As there is a finish in the form of a coating which makes up more than 7% of the garment this must be stated on the label.

Trade Marks Act 1994

As trespass is a trademark with a registered logo they are entitled to be protected under the Trade Marks Act. This act will ensure that there product will not be duplicated and sold by third parties. This applies to both their designs and logo. This will protect the brand as well as consumers from third party sellers trying to imitate their products either through products or packaging.

trespass_0

References

Tresspass . (2019 ). Womens Waterproof Jackets. Available: https://www.trespass.com/women/jackets/waterproof-jackets/sort-by/price/sort-direction/asc. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Alpine Treck. (2019). LET’S TALK ABOUT PU COATINGS. Available: https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/base-camp/lets-talk-about-pu-coatings/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Ellisbrigham. (2019). Waterproof fabrics buying guide. Available: https://www.ellis-brigham.com/advice-inspiration/guides-and-advice/buying-guides/waterproof-fabrics-buying-guide. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Marc Dietz. (2018). WHAT IS SEAM TAPING AND WHY IT IS IMPORTANT FOR YOUTH WINTER GEAR. Available: https://shreddog.com/blogs/news/what-is-seam-taping-and-why-it-it-important-for-youth-winter-gear. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Persil. (2019). How to Wash Gore-Tex and other Waterproofs.Available: https://www.persil.com/uk/laundry/laundry-tips/fabrics/how-to-wash-gore-tex-and-other-waterproofs.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Amy Mckerrell. (2018). Polyester. Available: https://wordpress.com/post/amymckerrell.home.blog/51. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Wikihow. (2019). How to Choose Sewing Thread. Available: https://www.wikihow.com/Choose-Sewing-Thread. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Amy Mckerrell. (2018). Aftercare. Available: https://wordpress.com/post/amymckerrell.home.blog/247. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Amy Mckerrell. (2019). Legislation . Available: https://wordpress.com/post/amymckerrell.home.blog/248. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Brief 1 – Next Children’s Wear

15th Jan 201920th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Brief

The brief has asked for a Children’s nightwear range design for the company Next. This design can be for ages 3 months up to 16 years old. I have chosen to base my range off the age group of 3 months to 6 years old girls.

As this is a children’s range designed for young girls the target market will be aimed towards parents and grandparents of children which means the target market group would be aimed towards ages 20 upwards.

The typical customer at Next has a low to mid range income and a high expectations of the quality of product they are going to purchase. The target customer also has a high expectation of safety considerations as well as fabric choices going into the clothing as it is designed to be worn by young children.

The 3 month to 6 year old nightwear range has a vast price range which starts at only £7.50 and ends at £30.

Design

Fabric Choices

I have chosen for this brief to make my fabric choice an 100% cotton fibre based fabric. On the Next website when looking at children’s nightwear I have found that the vast majority of their nightwear is made out of cotton fabric.

Cotton is the most produced fibre in the world so is very easy to source and is a lot cheaper to produce compared to animal fibres such as wool. Cotton is a good choice for children’s nightwear as it is a very soft and comfortable fibre which will not irritate even sensitive skin due to it being non-allergenic.

It is a woven fabric and very resistant which can take a lot of pull while still maintaining its shape. This is due to cotton being a fibre which is typically woven. This is good for children’s wear as children have a tendency to investigate anything they come into contact with and need durable long lasting clothing.

It conducts heat very well so is an idea fibre to use during any time of year as the fibre will keep you warm in winter and cool in summer. This fibre cannot conduct any static charges.

Cotton fibres are matt in finish and don’t have any lustre. It can be easily dyed in bright colours easily but due to high absorbency it can be difficult to remove stains from.

Due to the comfort, affordability, it being non- allergenic, resistant as well as being a conductor of heat and easy to dye this fibre is an ideal choice to use when designing clothes for children.

Cotton is a good choice for children’s wear as it is non-allergenic unlike many other fibres. It is comfortable and can easily be dyed into bright colours which appeal to children. It is highly affordable, tear resistant, and conducts heat. These properties are advantageous in children’s wear as clothes has to be comfortable yet strong. Cotton can also be treated in order to be crease resistant which will both increase the strength of the fabric further and lower the maintenance requirements of the garment.

Many man made fibres such as polyester and acrylic can cause irritation the the skin so is not recommended for children as they have sensitive skin and will cause discomfort and irritation. Natural fibres such as silk and wool are more expensive to buy as it cannot be produced in as a large quantity which plant fibres such as cotton can. Linen although has many similar properties to cotton is slightly more expensive so cotton would more likely to be used due the price point.

For my thread choice I have chosen to use a polyester thread. Polyester is very well known as being a strong and resilient fibre which is ideal for children’s wear clothing as it will resist pull and tears.

Aftercare

Washing

Cotton Wash 30 degrees to prevent shrinking due to heat

Bleaching

Do not bleach

Ironing

Cotton is prone to creasing and shrinking in heat so although it must he ironed regularly care must be taken not to iron it at too high a heat as it is also prone to damage from heat. A low heat is recommended for this.

Dry Cleaning

Can safely be dry cleaned.

Tumble Dry

Do not tumble dry in order to prevent shrinkage

Hang Dry

Dry flat to prevent distortion

Legislation

The Nightwear (Safety) Legislation 1985

Nightwear can be very dangerous as it is often worn around heat sources such as open fires as well as gas and electric fires. This is especially true for the elderly as well as children. Many practices have been made law in order to better control flammability of nightwear in order to increase safety and lower nightwear related casualties, this is done through The Nightwear Safety Regulations of 1985.
The Nightwear Safety Regulation of 1985 ensures that every person who supplies garments which are intended to be sold as nightwear are only suppling garments which meet the laws high safety standard. This law applies to manufacturers, importers, wholesalers, and retailers both in store and online but does not apply to nightwear which will be exported and pre-owned nightwear.

Children

The main requirements for children’s nightwear which applies to children between the ages of 3 months and 13 years old are that they cannot measure any bigger than the measurements stated in the regulation. The measurements are:

Nightdresses

Chest: 91 cm
Length: 122 cm

Dressing Gowns, Bath Robes etc.

Chest : 97 cm
Sleeve: 69 cm

Flammability Standards

Nightdresses and dressing gowns have to by law fulfil flammability tests to a suitable standard whereas pyjamas and towels do not have to fulfil flammability tests to a suitable standard but must have a permanent label attached to the garment showing if they fulfil the flammability standard given.
Babies
The main requirements for children’s nightwear which applies to children between the ages of 0 months and 3 months old are that they cannot measure any bigger than the measurements stated in the regulation. The measurements are:
Chest – 53 centimetres.

Flammability

All clothing made for babies must have a permanent label attached to the garment showing if they fulfil the flammability standard given or not.

Label Requirements

Any nightwear that does not meet the laws flammability standard must have a label with the words.
KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE
Any nightwear that does meet the flammability laws must also carry a label which has contains one of the following phrases;
LOW FLAMMABILITY TO BS 5722
LOW FLAMMABILITY TO BS 5722 as well as KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE
KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE
All words have to by law be in medium letters in upper case and be in the size of 10 point.

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Trade Marks Act 1994

As Next is a trademark with a registered brand they are entitled to be protected under the Trade Marks Act. This act will ensure that there product will not be duplicated and sold by third parties. This applies to both their designs and logo. This will protect the brand as well as consumers from third party sellers trying to imitate their products either through products or packaging.

The Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition) Regulations 2012

References

Next. (2019). Girls Pyjamas Younger Girls. Available: https://www3.next.co.uk/shop/gender-youngergirls/category-pyjamas-isort-price%20rev. Last accessed 14/01/19

Next. (2019). OUR CUSTOMERS AND PRODUCTS. Available: https://www.nextplc.co.uk/corporate-responsibility/our-customers-and-products. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Amy Mckerrell. (2019). Legislation . Available: https://wordpress.com/post/amymckerrell.home.blog/248. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Amy Mckerrell. (2018)eg. Cotton. Available: https://wordpress.com/post/amymckerrell.home.blog/30. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Amy Mckerrell. (2018). Aftercare. Available: https://wordpress.com/post/amymckerrell.home.blog/247. Last accessed 14/01/19.

love your clothes. (2016). How to care for cotton. Available: https://www.loveyourclothes.org.uk/guides/how-care-cotton. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Cotton Mill. (2019). How do I care for my 100% cotton clothes?.Available: https://www.cottonmill.com/how-do-i-care-for-my-100-cotton-clothes/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Wikihow. (2019). How to Choose Sewing Thread. Available: https://www.wikihow.com/Choose-Sewing-Thread. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Brief 2 – Topshop Womenswear

15th Jan 201920th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Brief

The brief has asked for a womenswear design for the company Topshop. This design has to be made for party use and based on the Winter season.

The target market for this design is aimed towards young adults ranging from around the ages of 18 – 29 years old. This is due to Topshop’s current target market being around this age range.

The typical customers at Topshop are young women with a low to mid income who are looking for on trend and high quality clothing at a low price. Often their consumers are students so they keep the prices lower in order to cater to that demographic.

Topshop partywear ranges vastly in price with the cheapest being only £12 and the most expensive being £195.

As the design is for a winter party range the fabric used must be taken into consideration due to the season typically being cold. Certain safety concerns must also be taken into consideration with this design.

Design

Fabric Choices

I have chosen to use Velveteen as my main fabric choice for this garment. Velveteen is typically made of a cotton fibre and is soft to the touch and warm. It has a short pile on the right side and a smooth backing. It is made as a cheaper alternative to velvet and although has less draping properties than velvet still drapes well.

Cotton fibre is a hypo allergenic fibre which is good for people with skin conditions to wear as it will not damage their skin. It is soft to the touch and comfortable to wear. Cotton fibres are very strong and will resist a lot of pull and abrasion. This fibre does not conduct static and also is a good conductor of heat. Cotton fibres can be dyed easily into many colours.

A cotton based fabric such as velveteen is good for a party wear range due to it not only looking good but also the advantages of the fibre being hypo allergenic as well as soft and comfortable on the skin. The strength and durability will ensure that the garment will not easily be damaged during parties. As the fibre conducts heat it will keep the wearer warm in cold weather and cool in warm weather which is ideal for a winter design as the wearer may be moving from the cold outside into a heated building.

Fibres such as acrylic and polyester are not a good choice for this design as a coating would have to be added to preventing it from burning which would add to the total production cost. Wool and silk are expensive to create a garment from and are not suited to the retailer due to the high cost. Linen could be used as an alternative to cotton but is more expensive so cotton would be the first choice due to having extremely similar properties at a lower cost.

Aftercare

Washing

Cotton Wash 30 degrees to prevent shrinking due to heat

Bleaching

Do not bleach

Ironing

Cotton based fabrics are prone to creasing and shrinking in heat so although it must he ironed regularly care must be taken not to iron it at too high a heat as it is also prone to damage from heat. A low heat is recommended for this.

Dry Cleaning

Can safely be dry cleaned.

Tumble Dry

Do not tumble dry in order to prevent shrinkage

Hang Dry

Dry flat to prevent distortion

Legislation

The Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition) Regulations 2012

Trade Marks Act 1994

As Topshop is a trademark with a registered brand they are entitled to be protected under the Trade Marks Act. This act will ensure that there product will not be duplicated and sold by third parties. This applies to both their designs and logo. This will protect the brand as well as consumers from third party sellers trying to imitate their products either through products or packaging.

References

Topshop. (2019). Going Out. Available: http://www.topshop.com/en/tsuk/category/clothing-427/going-out-938/N-867Zdgl?Nrpp=20&Ns=promoPrice%7C0&siteId=%2F12556&sort_field=Price+Ascending&No=0. Last accessed 14/01/19

Amy Mckerrell. (2018). Chemical Finishes. Available: https://wordpress.com/post/amymckerrell.home.blog/143. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Wikihow. (2019). How to Choose Sewing Thread. Available: https://www.wikihow.com/Choose-Sewing-Thread. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Amy Mckerrell. (2018). Aftercare. Available: https://wordpress.com/post/amymckerrell.home.blog/247. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Amy Mckerrell. (2019). Legislation . Available: https://wordpress.com/post/amymckerrell.home.blog/248. Last accessed 14/01/19.

britannica . (2019). Velveteen. Available: https://www.britannica.com/topic/velveteen. Last accessed 11.03.19

Legislation

14th Jan 201920th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

The Nightwear (Safety) Legislation 1985

The Nightwear Safety Regulation of 1985 ensures that every person who supplies garments which are intended to be sold as nightwear are only suppling garments which meet the laws high safety standard. This law applies to manufacturers, importers, wholesalers, and retailers both in store and online but does not apply to nightwear which will be exported and pre-owned nightwear.

Children

Nightdresses

Chest: 91 cm
Length: 122 cm

Dressing Gowns, Bath Robes etc.

Chest : 97 cm
Sleeve: 69 cm

Flammability Standards

Nightdresses and dressing gowns have to by law fulfil flammability tests to a suitable standard whereas pyjamas and towels do not have to fulfil flammability tests to a suitable standard but must have a permanent label attached to the garment showing if they fulfil the flammability standard given.

Babies

The main requirements for children’s nightwear which applies to children between the ages of 0 months and 3 months old are that they cannot measure any bigger than the measurements stated in the regulation. The measurements are:

Chest – 53 centimetres.

Flammability

All clothing made for babies must have a permanent label attached to the garment showing if they fulfil the flammability standard given or not.

Adults

Flammability

All adults nightwear including any garment which is commonly worn as nightwear such as bath robes by law has to have a permanent label attached which tells the consumer whether or not the nightwear complies with the suggested flammability standards. The flammability law applies to the entire garment in question which will include all threads, trims, decorations and labels. The only things exempt from this law is elastic and elastic threads. Any nightwear which has been treated with chemicals in order to meet the flammability standard must also show on the label a warning about what can and cannot be used to wash the garment.

Label Requirements

Any nightwear that does not meet the laws flammability standard must have a label with the words.

KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE

Any nightwear that does meet the flammability laws must also carry a label which has contains one of the following phrases;

LOW FLAMMABILITY TO BS 5722

LOW FLAMMABILITY TO BS 5722 as well as KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE

KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE

All words have to by law be in medium letters in upper case and be in the size of 10 point.

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The Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition) Regulations 2012

The Textile Products Regulation of 2012 ensures that all textile items must carry a label which states the contents of the fibres. This has to be shown on either the label or packaging and every individual fibre content must be shown however small. Textile items must use the common name for each fibre as to not confuse the consumer which is clearly stated in the regulation and certain products are exempt from showing fibre content at all. Products that do not need to have a label containing fibre content includes;

Animal clothing
oven gloves
cloths
safety items such as parachutes and life jackets
tapestries
watch straps

Textile Products

A textile product is seen to be one of the below;

Any raw or manufactured product which us made out of fibres.
A product that weight is made up of at least 80% textile fibres.
fibre content of things such as carpets and mattresses
fibres which are in other products where textiles are specified in the item.

Fur and Animal Product

Customers have to by law also be made aware of any animal product is in a textile such as leather or fur.

When animal product is used that is not typically used in textile manufacture such as fur or leather the the label must state this with the sentence.

“contains non-textile parts of animal origin”

Another optional thing the manufacturer can put on the label is information on the animal product used examples of this being things such as lambskin but either way the phrase above has to be used by law.

This also ensures that the consumer knows if they are receiving real or faux fur and mislabelling this is against the law. It is also illegal to sell, import or export any product made of cat, dog or seal fur.

Labelling

All items made with textiles (except exclusions) have to carry a label on the item or packaging which states the fibre content of the fibres used This label must be durable, easy to read and access.

If the item is supplied to a retailer and the total fibre content of the item is at least 85% of the total product and contains a minimum of 2 fibres the garment should state each fibre along with a percentage of the total content eg. Cotton 95% Elastaine 5%. If the product is made up of more than one component such as a piece of clothing which contains a lining the fibre content of both the garment and the lining must be shown on the label.

Any trims, finishes or surface decoration that makes up 7% or less of the total product is excluded from this law. The term “pure” can only be used when the product is made of only one fibre eg. pure cotton. The term “silk” can only be used for products made of pure silk fibre and not a combination fibre such as silk acetate.

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Trade Marks Act 1994

A trade mark is defined as anything used to distinguish a product or service from other products or services. A trade mark can consist of words, phrases, graphics, designs or even the products shape or package. A trade mark that has been registered has the right to claim for copyright infringement from anyone who has tried to copy their product any any way which they have registered as their brands trade mark. Any trade mark of products that have not been registered have no protection from being copied from other brands and do not have the same rights. There are many ways which a trade mark can be infringed, below is a few examples.

If a seller or manufacturer who does not have permission from the brand in question uses a mark or phrase which is identical to a trademark which has already been registered eg, Nike uses the brands mark on a similar product without any modification to the logo or phrase. This counts minor logo or phrase changes which would be unnoticeable to the average consumer’s eyes.
When a seller or manufacturer adds an identical trademark which on a similar product or service or a similar trademark on identical products or service from that brand. This creates confusion with customers on the origin of the product or service and the possible link between the two trade marks.

References

Newcastle City Council . (2019). Guidance on the Safety of Nightwear.Available: https://www.newcastle.gov.uk/business/trading-standards/product-safety/guidance-on-the-safety-of-nightwear. Last accessed 14/01/19.

gov.uk. (2019). The Nightwear (Safety) Regulations 1985. Available: http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1985/2043/schedules/made. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Business Companion . (2019). Labelling of textiles. Available: https://www.businesscompanion.info/en/quick-guides/goods/labelling-of-textiles. Last accessed 14/01/19.

gov.uk. (2019). The Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition) Regulations 2012. Available: https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2012/1102/contents/made. Last accessed 14/01/19.

gov.uk. (2019). The Textile Products (Labelling and Fibre Composition) Regulations 2012. Available: https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1994/26/contents. Last accessed 14/01/19.

British Library. (2019). A beginner’s guide to trademark infringement.Available: https://www.bl.uk/business-and-ip-centre/articles/a-beginners-guide-to-trade-mark-infringement. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Waveguide. (2016). Nike Logo. Available: http://www.waveguide.com/nike-logo/. Last accessed 14/01/19.

baby centre . (2014). Flammable clothes. Available: https://community.babycenter.com/post/a50713099/flammable_clothes. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Wikipedia. (2019). Textile Labelling Act (Germany). Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_Labelling_Act_(Germany). Last accessed 14/01/19.

Aftercare

8th Jan 201920th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Care Labels

Washing Instructions

Depending on the symbol on the garment will depend on the way a garment should be washed. Things such as fibre type, embellishment and use will all be taken into consideration when creating washing instructions.

Cotton Wash

Washing instructions are shown with a picture of a washtub. When there is no bar underneath the washtub and instead a number inside the symbol you should wash the garment up to the specified temperature shown and no more as this could potentially cause damage to the garment.

no bar wash

Synthetics Wash

A single bar underneath the washtub indicates that there are synthetic fibres in the garment therefore the clothing should be treated with a wash designed for synthetic fibres.

single bar wash

Wool Wash

Two bars underneath the washtub indicates that the garment should be washed very carefully at a lower temperature such as 30 degrees as to not damage or shrink the garment.

2 bar wash

Hand Wash

A picture of a washtub with a hand inside it indicates that the garment should not be washed in a machine and instead be washed carefully by hand. This is commonly used on garments with a lot of embellishment or very delicate materials.

hand wash

No Washing

The final washing symbol seen on care labels is a wash tub with a cross through it. This tells us the particular garment shouldn’t be washed by hand or machine as it will cause damage to the garment.

X wash

Bleaching Instructions

Depending on the symbol on the garment will depend on the way a garment should be bleached. Things such as fibre type and dyes already used will be taken into consideration when selecting which bleaches can be used on a garment if any at all. Bleaching is represented on a garment care label as a triangle.

Any Bleach Allowed

all bleach

If the triangle is plain with nothing inside it the garment is safe to bleach. As long as the solution is diluted and cold it is safe to use Chlorine based bleaches on the fabric as well as oxygen based bleaches.

Oxygen / Non-Chlorine Bleach

line bleach

When there is diagonal lines scored through the triangle this shows that the particular garment in question can still be bleached but cannot be bleached with a chlorine based bleach and can only be bleached with oxygen based bleaches.

Do Not Bleach

X bleach

When the triangle has a cross through it this tells us that the garment is not safe to bleach. This goes for both Chlorine based bleaches and Oxygen based bleaches as they have the potential to damage the garment.

Ironing Instructions

The iron symbol on a care label indicates how a garment can be ironed without causing damage. Not all garments can be ironed due to the fibres potential to shrink and become damaged.

Cool Iron

o iron

A iron symbol with a single dot inside it indicates the garment can be ironed but only at temperatures of 110 degrees and under without causing damage or shrinkage to the garment. Steaming garments are not recommended with these care instructions.

Warm Iron

oo iron

An iron symbol with two dots inside it indicates the garment can be ironed at warm temperatures. This tends to be at a temperature of 150 degrees and under without causing damage or shrinkage. Steaming a garment with this care label does not risk the fabric.

Hot Iron

ooo iron

An iron symbol with three dots insides it indicates the garment can be ironed with a hot temperature up to 200 degrees. This is normally used for fabrics which are extremely heat resistant and are very difficult to cause shrinkage or damage through heat. Steaming a garment with this care label does not risk the fabric.

Do Not Iron

X iron

Finally an iron symbol with a cross through it tells us that this garment shouldn’t be ironed as even the lowest temperature of iron can cause shrinkage and damage to the fabric. This is used for very delicate fabrics which are damaged through either ironing or steaming.

Dry Cleaning Instructions

The dry cleaning symbol is represented by a circle. This tells people whether or not the garment can be dry cleaned safely as well as telling dry cleaners how to clean the garments in order to preserve the garments quality and not cause any damage.

Dry Clean

dry clean

The circle symbol without anything inside it tells people that a garment can be safely and easily dry cleaned without causing damage to the garment.

May Be Dry Cleaned

P dry clean

The circle symbol with a letter in the middle tells people that the garment can still be safely dry cleaned much like the plain dry clean symbol. The difference is the letter in the middle which tells the dry cleaner what solvents and process should be used when cleaning the product to ensure the garment is cleaned safely and to a high quality.

Do Not Dry Clean

X dry clean

The circle symbol with a cross through the centre tells people that the particular garment is not safe to dry clean without damage occurring. This also tells the person that they cannot use solvents on the garment in order to remove stains.

Tumble Dry Instructions

The tumble dry symbol is represented by a square with a circle within it. This symbol tells people whether or not it is safe to tumble dry their garments as well as what setting on the tumble dryer to use to make sure the garment is dried safely.

Tumble Dry

tumble dry

A square with a circle within it on the care label shows that the garment can be safely tumble dried without damaging the garment.

Tumble Dry Low

o tumble dry

A square with a circle within it as well as a single dot shows that the garment can still be safely tumble dried without any damage or shrinkage but must be dried on a low heat setting in order to do so. Not following these instructions can cause the garment to shrink or burn.

Tumble Dry High

oo tumble dry

A square with a circle within it as well as a pair of dots shows that the garment can be dried on most settings but will get the best results from drying the garment on a high heat setting. This could be used for garments that would take a long time to dry. The garments dried on a high heat setting have to be heat resistant as well as resistant to shrinkage.

Do Not Tumble Dry

X tumble dry

A square with a circle within it as well as a cross through the middle indicates that it is not safe to tumble dry the garment without causing damage including shrinkage and burning. Therefore why some garments are not safe to tumble dry.

Line Dry Instructions

Line dry instructions are symbolised by a square with another symbol within it to determine how is best to dry the garment. All garments are possible to line dry.

Hang / Line Dry

Hang line dry

A square with a curved line at the top tells the consumer that when drying the garment the garment should be hung on a line. This is done when tumble drying could distort or damage the garment.

Dry Flat

dry flat

A box with a horizonal line in it tells us that garments should be dried on a flat surface. This is done for garments which can be distorted by drying hung up.

Drip Dry

drip dry

A box with three vertical horizontal lines through indicates that the particular garment should be drip dried. This is mainly done with synthetic materials which withstand being distorted.

References

Persil. (2019). Wash Care Symbols. Available: https://www.persil.com/uk/laundry/laundry-tips/fabrics/wash-care-symbols.html#!. Last accessed 14/01/19.

Chantilly Lace

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Production

Chantilly lace is a lace that originated in Northern France, it is a type of bobbin lace.

Bobbin lace also known as pillow lace is a modified weaving process. It is made from a group of bobbins and a lace-making pillow. A pattern is drawn onto a piece of card and attached to the pillow, and pins are put in place to mark out the design. The threads are then put through the pattern using the bobbins in order to create the design. This lace tends to be made of a higher quality fibre such as silk or linen.

1200px-Ursuline_lace_2 — Production of Bobbin lace

Physical Properties

Chantilly lace can stretch fairly well on the width but not the length. It is a very delicate and fragile fabric and can be easily damaged or torn.

Atheistic properties

Chantilly lace has a very intricate pattern but is prone to shrinking when washed or ironed so care must be taken to preserve this lace. This lace also has an excellent drape.

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Uses

Chantilly lace is often used in wedding dresses due to its soft feminine look. Its excellent draping capacities also highlight why is it good for bridal wear.

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Chantilly lace can also be used in women’s underwear. Once again this is due to its soft feminine look as well as the fact that it has a slight stretch.

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References

Textile Research Centre. (2017). Bobbin Lace. Available: https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/techniques/lace-making/bobbin-lace. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

The Cotworld Frock Shop. (2018). Mori Lee. Available: https://www.thecotswoldfrockshop.co.uk/wedding-dresses-bridal-gowns-c76/designer-wedding-dresses-c1/mori-lee-8220-katerina-strapless-chantilly-lace-gown-ivory-champagne-p5375. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Fabrics & Fabrics. (2018). French Floral Chantilly Lace – Ivory/Silver.Available: https://fabrics-fabrics.com/products/floral-chantilly-lace-ivory-silver-designer-fashion-fabric. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

SEABREEZECLOTHING. (2017). CHANTILLY LACE UNDERWEAR.Available: http://seabreezeclothing.com/breeze/5982-chantilly-lace-underwear/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Wikipedia. (2018). Bobbin Lace. Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bobbin_lace. Last accessed 19/11/2018

Chemical Finishes

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Production

Crease resist

Resin is used on fibres such as Viscose and Cotton. This makes them resistant to creasing and reduces the need for the fabric to be ironed. The finished fabric is soaked in a bath of resin which main ingredient is a formaldehyde based solution. After the fabric has be soaked for a while it is dried and is now ready to be distributed to be produced into garments.

Physical Properties

Once crease resistant fabric becomes more fast drying than normal. Treated fabrics become softer to the touch so increases wearer comfort drastically. When treated the fabric will dry much faster than an untreated garment. The downside to this process is that is can cause people with sensitive skin to come out in rashes due to the resin solution it is treated in. The fabric which is treated although becomes softer also becomes more stiff and is harder to manipulate.

Atheistic properties

When made crease resistant fabric becomes easy care and unlikely to crease. This makes maintaining the fabric much easier. When treated the fabric also becomes resistant to piling. The downside is that due to the fabric becoming stiffer this reduces the overall draping properties of the fabric used.

Uses

Crease resistance is used on things such as formal shirts so they do not have to be ironed so often. They are easy to maintain and last much longer than a garment which has not been treated.

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References

BBC. (2018). Production Techniques. Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/productiontechniquesrev5.shtml. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Christopher Muscato. (2018). Fabric Finishes: Definition & Types.Available: https://study.com/academy/lesson/fabric-finishes-definition-types.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018

Uniqlo. (2018). Dress Shirts. Available: https://www.uniqlo.com/us/en/men/dress-shirts. Last accessed 19/11/2018

Josh Fields. (2013). The Ugly Truth About Wrinkle-Free Shirts.Available: https://www.reviewed.com/laundry/features/the-ugly-truth-about-non-iron-shirts. Last accessed 11.03.19.

Yahya Can. (2009). Effect of wrinkle resistance finish to cotton fabric properties .Available: http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/4391/1/IJFTR%2034%282%29%20183-186.pdf. Last accessed 11.03.19.

Mechanical Finishes

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Production

Brushing is a technique used in order to make the fabric softer and warmer. The fabric is fed through a machine which brushes the fabric before being dyed and are then brushed again in order to ensure the fabric is as soft as possible.

Another finishing technique that is used is Calendaring. This is when fabric is pressed through rollers in order to smoothen the fabric as well as increase the lustre.

calender-machine-for-textile-500x500 — Calendaring Machine

Physical Properties

Brushing a fabric will increase its insulation properties as well as give it a higher loft. Caldering a fabric makes it smoother to the touch.

Atheistic properties

Brushing a fabric can increase the pills on the fabric whereas calendaring a fabric will increase its lustre but may shrink the fabric depending on the type of fibre used.

Uses

Brushed fabric can be seen commonly on plaid shirts. This increases the insulation properties of the fabric which is ideal for this garment as it it commonly worn in the Autumn time.

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A use of calendaring fabric can be seen in garments made of high lustre fabrics such as silk. This can be used in order to enhance the already high lustre of the garment.

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References

Textile School. (2018). Fabric Finishes for Enhancing Appearance.Available: https://www.textileschool.com/284/fabric-finishes-for-enhancing-appearance/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

BBC. (2018). Production Techniques. Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/productiontechniquesrev5.shtml. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Ali Express. (2018). New Arrival 2017Autumn fashion check design brushed fabric slim fit mens plaid casual shirts quality no fade no shrink male tops. Available: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-2017Autumn-fashion-check-design-brushed-fabric-slim-fit-mens-plaid-casual-shirts-quality-no/32851515477.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Noban group. (2018). Profile. Available: http://www.norbangroup.com/profile. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

india mart. (2018). Calender Machine For Textile. Available: https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/calender-machine-for-textile-11475654730.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018

india mart. (2018). Banarasi Silk Fabric. Available: https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/banarasi-silk-fabric-4759955655.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018

Satin

19th Nov 201820th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Production

The warp and wefts of the satin weave are arranged in a complex manor which allows the float threads to be longer in either the warp or weft. This allows light hitting the weave to evenly distribute across the fabric which causes the high lustre. There are four steps in creating a satin weave fabric.

Shedding: First every warp yarn are lifted in order to add what is called filling, this forms something known as a shed. This is performed on a rectangular frame where something known as heddles have been attached. Heddles are made from wire. As the warp yarn raises it is threaded through a small hole in the heddles this is called drawing in.
Picking: When the warp yarn lifts though shedding the weft yarn is then inserted by a electronic device. One motion of this action is known as a pick. With satin weave the warp thread is inserted over the most minimal amount of weft threads possible.
Beating Up/Battening: All of the warp yarns are threaded through the hole in the heddle and through a reed. A reed is a comb like device which pushes the newly formed weave line against all previous weave lines. This ensures that the weave it tight and strong.
Taking Up and Letting Off: As all of the other previous steps are in progress the newly formed weave fabric is wound onto a beam and is known as taking up. While this is happening all of the warp yarns are released from the beams they are attached to. This is known as letting off.
These steps are constantly continued until the desired length of fabric has been produced.

Physical Properties

The Satin weave has very good elasticity. Other physical properties of satin weave are determined by which fibre is used in the weave.

Atheistic properties

Satin weave always has a side with a high lustre and a low lustre and has excellent draping capabilities. The downside to satin weave is that it frays easily.

Other atheistic properties of satin weave are determined by which fibre is used in the weave.

Uses

Satin weave is commonly used in women’s evening wear in items such as dresses. This is due to the weave having an excellent lustre making it look luxurious as well as the excellent drape of the weave.

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Another use of satin weave is in lingerie. This is due to the luxurious look due to the high lustre and how well this weave drapes. The high elasticity is also a bonus.

calvin klein vintage claret underwear satin glam demi bra models

References

BBC. (2018). Fabrics. Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/fabricsrev1.shtml. Last accessed 19/11/2018

Kelly Mitchell. (2018). Satin. Available: http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-dictionary/satin/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

dh gate. (2018). 2016 Summer New Ball Gown Batau Fabric Name Satin Weave Evening Dress Junior Bridesmaid Dresses Color Green Red B-1299. Available: https://www.dhgate.com/product/2016-summer-new-ball-gown-bateau-fabric-name/375566245.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

daneille . (2018). What is Satin? A Fashion Lover’s Guide to Satin Fabric. Available: https://www.contrado.co.uk/blog/what-is-satin-a-fashion-lovers-guide-to-satin-fabric/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

fabricwholesaledirect. (2018). Bridal Satin. Available: https://www.fabricwholesaledirect.com/products/bridal-satin-fabric. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Raysia Arifin. (2013). Several Pros and Cons of Satin Underwear You Need to Know. Available: http://throwthatawayy.blogspot.com/2013/03/several-pros-and-cons-of-satin.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Textile School. (2018). Weaving Machine – basic operations. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/361/weaving-machine-basic-operations/. Last accessed 14/03/19.

Kathryn L. Hatch (2018). Textile Science . New York : West Publishing . 326.

Twill

19th Nov 201820th Mar 2019 amymckerrell1999Leave a comment

Production

Twill weave has distinguished diagonal wales that will go along the width of the weave. Twill weaves are woven on looms and are not interlocked as often as other weaves such as the plain weave so the yarns are condensed together. There are different variants of twill weaves such as herringbone. Twill weave is most commonly used to make jeans. Twill weave is created on a weaving machine which consists of four steps.

Shedding: First the warp yarns are lifted in order to add what is called filling, this forms something known as a shed. This is performed on a rectangular frame where something known as heddles have been attached. Heddles are made from wire. As the warp yarns are raised they are threaded through a small hole in the heddles this is called drawing in.
Picking: When the warp yarns are lifted though shedding the weft yarns are then inserted by a electronic device. When weaving a twill weave the weft yarns are inserted at an angle and in a certain pattern so that once fully weaved the fabric has it’s characteristic diagonal lines. One motion of this action is known as a pick.
Beating Up/Battening: The warp yarn is threaded through the hole in the heddle and through a reed. A reed is a comb like device which pushes the newly formed weave line against all previous weave lines. This ensures that the weave it tight and strong.
Taking Up and Letting Off: As all of the other previous steps are in progress the newly formed weave fabric is wound onto a beam and is known as taking up. While this is happening all of the warp yarns are released from the beams they are attached to. This is known as letting off.
This process is repeated until the desired amount of fabric has been made.

d99f78b9faa0b9b6d642ab84c05d80cf370cebc7 — Twill Weave Structure

Physical Properties

Twill weave has a high resistance and very strong. more so than plain weave. it is also a very durable weave and is normally heavy.

Depending on what fibres are used for the weave will depend on the other physical properties.

Atheistic properties

Twill weave is a crease resistant weave with no lustre but the downside is that it is prone to pilling. it is known for it’s characteristic diagonal lines.

Depending on what fibres are used for the weave will depend on the other atheistic properties.

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Uses

The most commonly seen use of twill weave is in the use of denim jeans. This is due to the weaves strength and durability. As well as the crease resistance.

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Another use of twill weave is in jackets, more commonly mens formal jackets. This is due to the weave being resistant to creasing as well as its strength and durability.

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References

Textile School. (2018). Twill Weaves. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/174/twill-weaves/. Last accessed 19/11/2018

Heather Marie Akou. (2018). Twill Weave. Available: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/twill-weave. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Textile School. (2018). Characteristics of Twill Weave. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/208/characteristics-of-twill-weave/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Jaeger. (2018). REGULAR TWILL WEAVE JACKET. Available: https://www.jaeger.co.uk/regular-twill-weave-jacket-a17f8f. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

higgsandhiggs. (2018). Natural Twill Weave Stripe – Flax – Linen.Available: https://www.higgsandhiggs.com/natural-twill-weave-stripe-flax-linen.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

BBC. (2018). Fabrics. Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/fabricsrev1.shtml. Last accessed 19/11/2018

Textile School. (2018). Twill Weaves. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/174/twill-weaves/. Last accessed 14/03/19

Textile School. (2018). Weaving Machine – basic operations. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/361/weaving-machine-basic-operations/. Last accessed 14/03/19.