Production

Twill weave has distinguished diagonal wales that will go along the width of the weave. Twill weaves are woven on looms and are not interlocked as often as other weaves such as the plain weave so the yarns are condensed together. There are different variants of twill weaves such as herringbone. Twill weave is most commonly used to make jeans. Twill weave is created on a weaving machine which consists of four steps.

Shedding: First the warp yarns are lifted in order to add what is called filling, this forms something known as a shed. This is performed on a rectangular frame where something known as heddles have been attached. Heddles are made from wire. As the warp yarns are raised they are threaded through a small hole in the heddles this is called drawing in.
Picking: When the warp yarns are lifted though shedding the weft yarns are then inserted by a electronic device. When weaving a twill weave the weft yarns are inserted at an angle and in a certain pattern so that once fully weaved the fabric has it’s characteristic diagonal lines. One motion of this action is known as a pick.
Beating Up/Battening: The warp yarn is threaded through the hole in the heddle and through a reed. A reed is a comb like device which pushes the newly formed weave line against all previous weave lines. This ensures that the weave it tight and strong.
Taking Up and Letting Off: As all of the other previous steps are in progress the newly formed weave fabric is wound onto a beam and is known as taking up. While this is happening all of the warp yarns are released from the beams they are attached to. This is known as letting off.
This process is repeated until the desired amount of fabric has been made.

 

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Physical Properties

Twill weave has a high resistance and very strong. more so than plain weave. it is also a very durable weave and is normally heavy.

Depending on what fibres are used for the weave will depend on the other physical properties.

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Atheistic properties

Twill weave is a crease resistant weave with no lustre but the downside is that it is prone to pilling. it is known for it’s characteristic diagonal lines.

Depending on what fibres are used for the weave will depend on the other atheistic properties.

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Uses

The most commonly seen use of twill weave is in the use of denim jeans. This is due to the weaves strength and durability. As well as the crease resistance.

Another use of twill weave is in jackets, more commonly mens formal jackets. This is due to the weave being resistant to creasing as well as its strength and durability.

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References

Textile School. (2018). Twill Weaves. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/174/twill-weaves/. Last accessed 19/11/2018

Heather Marie Akou. (2018). Twill Weave. Available: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/twill-weave. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Textile School. (2018). Characteristics of Twill Weave. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/208/characteristics-of-twill-weave/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

Jaeger. (2018). REGULAR TWILL WEAVE JACKET. Available: https://www.jaeger.co.uk/regular-twill-weave-jacket-a17f8f. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

higgsandhiggs. (2018). Natural Twill Weave Stripe – Flax – Linen.Available: https://www.higgsandhiggs.com/natural-twill-weave-stripe-flax-linen.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.

BBC. (2018). Fabrics. Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/fabricsrev1.shtml. Last accessed 19/11/2018

Textile School. (2018). Twill Weaves. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/174/twill-weaves/. Last accessed 14/03/19

Textile School. (2018). Weaving Machine – basic operations. Available: https://www.textileschool.com/361/weaving-machine-basic-operations/. Last accessed 14/03/19.