Felting

Production

The main fibre used when making felt is wool. The wool is mixed with another fibre normally synthetic in order for the felt to last longer. The synthetic fibres that are mixed with the wool normally consist of either Nylon or Polyester.

The first step of producing felt is to mix the chosen fibres together. The wool along with the synthetic fibre chosen are put into a machine which contains nails that will mix the fibres together.

After this process the fibre mixture is put in a carding machine which will matt the fibres together to form a web like structure. This is done between two carding machines to ensure the fibres are matted properly and form a thick web. After the fibres have been carded twice a comb like device is used to remove the web from the carding machine and rolls up the fibres. The fibres are now known as a batt and are the basis of felt.

felt batting
Felt Batting
carding machine
Carding Machine

The next step in the process of making felt is to apply heat and moisture to the batting layers so they will stick together. This is done by putting the batting through a steam table.

The next step is to shrink the felt to the desired size, this is done through a process called fuling. The felt is coated with a chemical and water solution and forced through a pair of rollers, this causes the fabric to shrink and also become denser.

The felt is then soaked in another chemical bath in order to neutralise the chemicals which it previously absorbed. It is then pressed through rollers a final time in order to ensure the felt is smooth.

If the fabric is to be dyed it is sent to a dying vat in order to dye the felt otherwise it will be sent straight to the drying phase. The felt is taken to a large dryer where the felt is dried.

Finally the felt is ironed a final time to ensure smoothness and to make even denser before the edges are cut off and the felt is ready to use.


Physical Properties

Felt is a very resilient fabric which can withstand chemical damage easily. It is a fire retardant fabric and can also self extinguish. This makes it a very safe fabric to use. It is a insulator which will keep you warm in winter and cool in summer. It I a hydrophilic fabric and has excellent absorption.  A downside to felt is that it has no elastic resistance or strength so can easily tear.

felt 2


Atheistic properties

Felt is a very dense fabric so keeps a ridged shape and has no draping properties. It also does not have any lustre. Despite these points felt is a very soft fabric which never frays and cuts with a smooth clean edge. It is also wear resistant.

felt


Uses

One of the uses of felt in the fashion industry is the use of felt to make hats. This is due to felt being a ridged material which will hold its shape as well as it being very safe to use. As it does not fray and cuts with a clean edge I is an ideal fabric to use when making hats.

felt hat
Fedora made from felt

Another use for felt is to make items such as slippers. This is once again due to the safety of this material as well as it being an insulator. Another reason for felt being a popular choice is due to it being wear resistant which essential in footwear as well as the fact the material is ridged and does not fray.

top-felt-slippers-3
Slippers made from felt.

References

Made How. (2018). Felt. Available: http://www.madehow.com/Volume-7/Felt.html. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Atena . (2018). Advantages of Felt . Available: https://www.aetnafelt.com/pages/advantages-of-felt. Last accessed 27/11/18.

BBC GCSE Bitesize. (2018). Fabrics . Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/textiles/fabricsrev3.shtml. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Wikipedia . (2018). Carding . Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carding. Last accessed 27/11/18

Etsy. (2018). Dream Felt Premium Wool Batting NATURAL Collections. Available: https://www.etsy.com/listing/74443718/dream-felt-premium-wool-batting-natural. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Ebay. (2018). 100% wool felt 1mm thick per metre sheet 90cm wide natural melange colours . Available: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-wool-felt-1mm-thick-per-metre-sheet-90cm-wide-natural-melange-colours-/121356330153. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Ebay. (2018). 100% Wool Felt Fabric – 3mm Thick – Dark Grey European Felt – 1 Yard x 0.5 Yard . Available: https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Wool-Felt-Fabric-3mm-Thick-Dark-Grey-European-Felt-1-Yard-x-0-5-Yard-/310959365131. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Village Hat Shop. (2018). Hats and Caps. Available: https://www.villagehatshop.com/. Last accessed 27/11/18.

Emma Grady. (2010). Wool “Barefoot” Slippers by Top-Felt Can be Worn Year Round. Available: https://www.treehugger.com/style/wool-barefoot-slippers-by-top-felt-can-be-worn-year-round.html. Last accessed 27/11/18.

 

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