Origin
Linen is one of the oldest fibres to exist in the world and there is evidence of it being grown for textile purpose 36,000 years ago in the United Stats. In ancient Egypt linen was used to wrap mummies as it was a symbol of purity and wealth. It was considered such a luxury in ancient Egypt that it was sometimes used as a form of money.
Preparation
Linen fibres are found inside the stalks of the flax plant and is known as one of the oldest plants grown in human history. Flax can only grow for one season a year which means only one crop can be grown per year. The flax plant can grow up to 4 feet tall and requires little attention during the growing process which makes it popular among farmers. It will normally grow in damp, cool environments.
The flax is harvested for linen once the flowers on the plant become yellow in colour. Most of the time the flax plant is harvested including the roots, this is due to the linen fibres running through both the stalk and roots of the plant. This also prevents the oils leaking out of the plant which will dry out the fibres within and make them a poorer quality. The highest quality flax is harvested by hand rather than with machinery. This is due to a machine not yet being developed that will keep the flax preserved with the roots still attached.
The flax plant is then dried for several weeks before the seeds are removed in a process known as thrashing. After this the xylem and phloem within the stem of the plant has to be separated in order to reach the linen fibres. This is done through a process called retting. This is when the flax plants are weighed down in a body of water so that the remaining pant surrounding the linen rots away. This process can take up to several weeks.
The final step in separating the fibres from the flax is known as scrutching. This is a process where the flax is run through a machine which runs along the remaining plant and fibre in order to remove any remaining plant. The filaments are then ran through a bed of nails that splits the fibres apart.
Finally the fibres are spun on a distaff which is a pole which is attached onto a spinning wheel where the fibres are hung. The filaments are dampened during the spinning process to prevent it breaking or fraying. The fibres are spun onto a bobbin where they are now considered yarn ready for weaving.
Physical Properties Of Fibres
Linen is a hydrophillic fibre which can absorb up to 20 times its own weight when wet. When we it can also become up to 10 times stronger than when it is dry. It is naturally a very strong and durable fibre but can be damaged by the use of acids.
Linen is cool to the touch and is is a heat resistant fibre. As the fibre cannot hold air or heat by itself when made wet it can quickly release moisture and dries very quickly.
Aesthetic Properties Of Fibres
Linen is an inelastic fibre so wont stretch. It has a high lustre which gets better through repeated washing. Through washing this fibre will also become more durable and softer. Linen also has an excellent drape which is why its so popular to use.
References
history of clothing. (2018). History of Linen. Available: http://www.historyofclothing.com/textile-history/history-of-linen/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
Deck Towel. (2018). How Linen is Made. Available: https://www.decktowel.com/pages/how-linen-is-made-from-flax-to-fabric. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
Christopher Muscato. (2018). Textile Properties of Linen. Available: https://study.com/academy/lesson/textile-properties-of-linen.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
Ancient Resource . (2018). Ancient Egyptian Mummy Wrappings.Available: http://www.ancientresource.com/lots/egyptian/mummy_wrappings.html. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
Annies Annuals. (2018). Plants / Linum : Linum lewisii “Blue Flax”.Available: https://www.anniesannuals.com/plants/view/?id=615. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
visegradlive. (2018). visegradlive. Available: http://www.visegradlive.com/herbarium-lan/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
friends of the flaxmill maltings. (2018). Flax to Fabric. Available: http://www.flaxmill-maltings.co.uk/flax-to-fabric. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
blumenkinder heirlooms. (2018). Retting the flax. Available: https://blumenkinderheirlooms.wordpress.com/2014/08/30/retting-the-flax/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
Amy Mckerrell 