Production
Jersey knit is most commonly made from cotton fibres but can also be made from other fibres such as silk and wool. Jersey was named after the isle of Jersey in the Channel Islands which is where it was originally made to make fisherman’s sweaters. There are three main types of jersey made which are Single Jersey, Double Jersey and Jacquard Jersey. Although other variants of jersey can be found.
Jersey fabric is typically knitted what is known as a circular jersey knitting machinesand are the fastest knit to produce due to the structure only consisting of the basic knitting stitch. The yarns are kept on cones and fed through a single needle bed before being knitted into the basic knit stitch. The basic knit stitch is where each loop is threaded through the loop beneath it, the row of loops are known as wales. After the fabric is knitted it falls into the centre of the knitting machine and is collected by a roller at the bottom of the machine. Due to being produced from a knit stitch the finished fabric looks different on both sides. A single knit jersey is made of a single layer throughout with one set of needles being used.
What is known as latch needles are present in a circular needle bed with hooks facing out and raises and drops in order to pull newly formed loops into the previous loop of the knit stitch.
A double jersey fabric has a very similar structure to the single jersey, the only difference being that two layers of jersey are being knitted together in order to create a thicker and stronger structure compared to the single knit jersey. They are knitted with a double set of needles instead of a single set. Double knit jersey does not stretch as well as the single knit does.
Jacquard Jersey is a more complicated variation of a single knit jersey where multiple colours of threads can be used to knit together in order to create texture on the jersey.
Physical Properties
Single Jersey is a very lightweight fabric. It has excellent insulation so it will keep you cool in the heat and warm in the cold. It has a a low lustre and is soft to the touch. Especially when made with cotton it is a very breathable fabric which is why it is so popular in sportswear.
Double jersey however is a much heavier fabric due to having an extra layer than the single knit jersey. It still has very good insulation so it will keep you cool in the heat and warm in the cold. It has a a low lustre and is soft to the touch.
Atheistic properties
Jersey has a excellent drape, the best out of he three basic knits and is very crease resistant making it a popular knit to use. It is also a stretchy fabric and can stretch up to 20 % its length. Double knit jersey cannot stretch as far though due to the layers being interlocked. When cut jersey tends to curl at the ends, this is due to it being produced from the basic knit stitch and can make cutting and sewing jersey difficult. Another negative of jersey’s structure is it’s tendency to start running or laddering.
Uses
Jersey is often seen to be used in sportswear due to its stretch, high breathability insulation properties and also its resistance to creasing. This makes it a versatile fabric to use in sportswear.
Jersey is also popular in daywear items such as t-shirts, poloshirts and dresses. This was first introduced by Coco Chanel when she opened her first store in Paris. She was inspired by sportswear and used to fabric due to the excellent draping and that it was very cheap to buy. This worked excellently for Chanel and suited her customers increasingly fast paced lifestyles.
References
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Vouge Australia . (2010). Coco Chanel Was the Original Jersey Girl .Available: https://www.vogue.com.au/fashion/news/coco-chanel-was-the-original-jersey-girl/news-story/805ae884ab158711852cf19ee817ceed?. Last accessed 14/01/19.
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Ali Express. (2019). cardigan jacquard jersey clothing knit fabric sweater soft knit stretch cloth material tissue. Available: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/cardigan-stretch-knitting-tissue-jacquard-jersey-clothing-fabric-sweater-soft-knit-material/32782282558.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.
Mrs Bennetts. (2019). WORKOUT FABRIC JERSEY SKI SOFT JERSEY FABRIC 38BL-9081 – WOMEN RUNNING SHORT SLEEVE TOPS WHOLESALE ADIDAS RUNNING SHORT SLEEVE TOPS ULTIMATE SS TEE TRAINING WORKOUT FABRIC JERSEY SKI SOFT JERSEY FABRI.Available: http://www.mrsbennetts.co.uk/wholesale-adidas-running-short-sleeve-tops-ultimate-ss-tee-training-workout-fabric-jersey-ski-soft-jersey-fabric-38bl9081-women-running-short-sleeve-tops-p-2725.html. Last accessed 14/01/19.
Amy Mckerrell 