Origin
Wool is an renewable fibre source as it grows back on the animal every year. Not all wool has the same characteristics, it all depends on the species of animal, breed and country of origin. It is a very environmentally fibre in the terms that is is very biodegradable. It easily decomposes in soil within a short period of time and releases its nutrients into the ground.
Preparation
After wool has been shorn off the animal is is known as a fleece. It is thoroughly cleaned to remove dirt and oils before the next stage can begin.
The next stage of preparing wool is known as skirting, this is when all the edges of the fleece are cut off along with any pieces which are of too poor quality to use. The fleece is then sorted by the texture, quality and length of the wool.
The wool is then washed again in a acid based bath which is known as scouring. This is done to remove any remaining dirt that was in the wool as well as the grease it contains from the animal it was shorn off.
Picking is the next stage of the process which involves the wool fibres being separated through a machine called a piker. This machine also blows air through the fibres which help bring out its soft quality.
Afterwards the wool fibre goes through a process called carding. This is when the fibres are combed through a machine to define the fibres and create consistent and distinguishable filaments.The webs of fibres are then separated into small strips called pencil rovings and spun onto large spools to later be spun into yarn.
Finally the rovings of wool fibres are spun on machines to create yarn.
Physical Properties Of Fibres
Wool fibre is a protein fibre and has excellent resistance but becomes weak when exposed to heat. It will decompose at 130 degrees and chars at 300 degrees. Wool is a natural insulator and absorbs and releases water vapours. The heat is generated and stored during the absorption phase of this process.
Wool fibre is crimped very tightly which allows it to be breathable due to the air pockets created from the crimped structure. It is a hydrophillic fibre and is able to absorb and release 30 percent of its own weight.
Wool is a very safe fibre often used in children clothing due to the fact it does not promote bacteria growth and is not known to cause any allergic reactions, It is also odour resistant and has a high resistance to UV lights.
Aesthetic Properties Of Fibres
Wool has a tendency to discolour when exposed to direct sunlight for long periods of time, this is due to the keratin within the fibres decomposing and makes the fibres feel course.
Wool can easily be dyed due to its hydrophillic nature and easily absorbs many different dyes such as basic, direct and acid based dyes.
It is an anti-static and stain resistant fibre although due to it having short filaments it is delicate and easy to pull apart.
References
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blackberry ridge. (2018). steps in processing wool. Available: https://www.blackberry-ridge.com/prosdscr.htm. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
Mads Jakobsen. (2016). Know Your Wools: Cashmere, Lambswool, Angora and More. Available: https://www.heddels.com/2016/09/know-your-wools-cashmere-lambswool-angora-and-more/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
Stephen Kneale Uncategorized. (2015). THE ONLY THINGS “LAYING OUT A FLEECE” CAN TELL YOU. Available: https://stephenkneale.com/2015/11/19/the-only-things-laying-out-a-fleece-can-tell-you. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
Yorgos Geotsas. (2018). Mixed Media on canvas: Burned wool – resins- textiles and wood sticks.Dimensions 20X15.. Available: https://www.yorgosgiotsas-art.com/no-land/job_1953-2/. Last accessed 19/11/2018.
Elisabeth Beverley. (2017). plant dyed wool for hand knitting.Available: http://www.plant-dyedwool.co.uk/. Last accessed 19/11/2018
Amy Mckerrell 